79091102000 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Instructions included with terminal block assembly. Toughest part was to strip the insulator off of the old wires on the stove. I was originally going to just purchase one but after looking at the other terminal blocks and seeing the burnt insulation and some of the wire strands, I just replaced all 4. PartSelect customer sevice was very helpful to confirm the correct part number I needed for my stove.

took screws on outer sides and then removed glass put in new glass replaced screws done

Very simple with instructions supplied, Removed two screws inside on back of door, then removed four more screws to get to inner glass,removed broken glass installed new glass, replaced all screws.Job completed. very good instructions,Thank You.

took out old element put in new one and oven works as good as new

Part of one of the glides was still inside the hole so had to use a screwdriver to push it on out and simply put the new glides in both rear holes "very easily". Sure am glad I found this site on line. If anything else goes wrong, I will surely contact this site. Thanks. The speedy service was wonderful too. Got it in two days! Carol A. Lawless

Snapped in the plastic piece after I actually ordered the right piece....wasn't paying enough attention when ordering and didn't have a book that showed the image so I could make sure....went off the image on your website......which is awesome. Totally my fault. Thank you for your wonderful service.

prepared the parts as directions displayed, removed the heating coils and popped the hood on the range, simple curcit 2 wires in to the main harness for each coil. snip, plug and twist add heat wrap to seal the new conections and done very simple fix saved me buying another oven....for now

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

I made a 4' h 3.5' w and 7.5' long powder / ceramic coat oven capable of 700 degrees f. the elements were chosen due to their size and capabilty. I am useing -5- 2950watt elements split on 2 40 amp 120v coil contactors regulated with a PID and thermocouople.

My brother is a licensed electrician, so the job was relatively easy for him. The pieces of insulation were pre-cut to fit, so there was no trimming involved. He tilted the oven over on its back to replace the piece of insulation under the oven. Removed the metal panel between the storage drawer and oven bottom, removed the soiled insulation and wiped everything down with vinegar. Placed the new insulation and reinstalled the metal panel and drawer. Removed the oven/range top and again removed the soiled insulation, wiped everything down and installed the new insulation (this piece of insulation was the wrap around one that goes under the range top - across the top of the oven and down both sides). Replaced the oven top, then did the back panel - this one was the most time consuming, due to the need to disconnect some of the wiring and sensors, as well as having to loosen the panel where the control knobs are located in order to remove the inner panel to get to the insulation. The insulation was precut to fit around the oven light bulb, so just had to make sure we installed it right side up :). Have used the oven several times since and no more smell!!

Reviewed the online repair video a few times then got started. Although only two were bad, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I removed the range top instead of using the built in kick stands. this left me much more room to work and I was able to clean the top of the range really well before getting started. Wires for the back terminals where short and a little difficult to use after cutting off the old terminal blocks. The terminal block mounting option for my style range included with the repair kit would not allow me to utilize the screw for the third wire on the left rear burner. I used a drill to carefully widen the hole in the mount to make the original screw fit as there are no screws included with the kit. This added the extra time to complete the repair. Over all the repair was simple to complete but having to modify the terminal block mount was dissapointing considering the web site selected parts for my specific model number. Still a bargain compared to what a service call or new purchase costs. I will be reparing my ranges from now on.

I previously replaced terminal blocks and elements so the infinite switch was the last stop before new purchase. I reviewed the online repair video. Unplugged the range and removed the three screws from the rear of the control panel. I Removed the knobs then removed two screws to release the front plate behind the knobs. I removed the two screws securing switch #1 and compaired to the new parts before removing wires. Wire locations were labled the same but in different sequence. I located the knob adapter for my knobs and set them asside. At first I thought the rod coming out of the new switch was too long and then figured out that the indentions allong the rod were to be broken off to the correct length. ( re-reading the included instructions was nearly useless - - not in plain language ) I used a pair of vice-grips clamped just below the length of rod I wanted to break off and it snapped off easily and cleanly for the most part. ( A word to the wise, this is some really soft metal at the breaks along the rod. I attempted a second break on one switch after mounting in the control panel and the thing broke off at the short end - - scary ) luckily I was still able to use it with my knobs and adapters. I relocated the switch wires to the new switch one at a time matching label to label ( L1, L2, H1, H2, P) then mounted the new switch into the control panel. I re-assembled the range and it is heating better than ever. Well worth the effort and minimal expense compared to a service call or replacement range.

if iever need to do this again i will unplug the stove and take the back off. iwill remove the spade connectors from the back and remove and replace the unit from the front. from the rear i will replace the spade connectors and the insulation . plug in the stove and make sure everything works. unplugthe stove, put on the back,plug in the stove and position it.

Bought a electric range/oven with a broken glass in the door cheaply because the owner didn't think they could fix the glass. I watched the video on You Tube on how to handle the spring loaded hinges and followed the steps as presented. The toughest part of the job was cleaning all the crud on all of the glass due to the gap in the inner glass. I had to use a square drive and a phillips head screwdriver to disassemble and reassemble the door. It took less than 30 minutes to complete the job and most of that time was cleaning the glass.

I got the ex husband to come over and take it apart and fix it, he said that it was a really easy repair to complete.