9117340191 Kenmore Range - Instructions

i went for 3 months waiting on the electrician who never came then asked the plumber who else could fix it and he said my husband could it only needed to unscrew 4 tiny screws and unplug and cut and twist wires back the hardest part was reaching the bolts hooked to the ignighter the burner was in the way and is not as easy to remove as someone has said all in all it saved us 100 dollars and could have saved us months of burning food trying to cook on broil if i had only called the plumber first.ha ha

- removed the oven unit from the wall
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.

My husband removed the two screws t hat hold the element in place, Then he pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and replace the element with the new igniter put everything back and now its working like a charm

Followed suggestions of previous posts. Removed oven door, warming drawer, pan in bottom of oven. Removed element to replace igniter. One thing I would add is I put a small piece of electical tape on the heads of the two 1/4 in. screws for the rear element bracket. This kept them from falling out of nutdriver.

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.

1. I have searched info on the internet and found that site.
2. Initially I could not figure out how to unscrew ingniter. After reading more post I have found out how to access nuts underneath.
3. After I have removed lower drawer and unscrewed metal cover and then inginter nuts.
4. I have got a part with two wires attached to the igniter and two porcelan insulator, so it was very easy to cut old wires and connect with an igniter wires in parallel

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Checked on this website for ideas. A 20+ year repairman posted that the problem is the control valve and I should replace the igniter while I'm there. The valve was priced at $189 and the igniter $60. I decided to try the igniter first and all is well. Valve not needed.
Steps; remove; door, lower tray, and oven floor pan. Disconnect two igniter wires. Use 6mm sock to loosen gas feed tube, then lift tube up a couple of inches to access igniter screws. Remove them, and reverse process with new part. I tried to R&R the igniter without loosening the gas feed tube but it's a real PITA. Good luck, easy fix.

Replace igniter in oven. It was a simple repair and only required that I unplugged the power cord from the unit, remove the base and 2 screws holding the igniter.

Replacing the igniter was easy to do, that only took 15 min. The time was needed to take apart the bottom of the oven so I could get to the nuts on the igniter, and the time to put it back together again. I'm very inexperienced at this sort of thing so since I could do it I'd encourage anyone to give it a go, and anyone that knows what they're doing will do it much faster.

I only wish I would have taken the drawer out first to get at the wire connections. Instead I tried to get at them by trying to remove all the layers of sheet metal at the bottom of the oven - to no avail. Once I took the drawer out and saw the connections and bolts to remove that held the igniter/gas diffuser there was no problem. The new igniter does not come with the connectors on the ends so I simply cut off enough wire from the old one and used the wire nuts that came with to splice the wires. Simple reconnect and now we're "cookin' with gas" again.

It took a while to determine the cause of the problem because I was not familiar with gas appliances.After finding the problem I ordered a new igniter. The part was there in two and a half days!! I had it partly apart when the part arrived so it only took about 30 minutes to complete the repair. I would recomend PartsSelect to anyone. I have never had parts come that quickly.

I'm still repairing. The igniter was replaced with new but it still doesn't glow. I'm waiting for a schematic that is being mailed to me from GE. In the meantime I have borrowed a test instrument to check that the system is hot when the BAKE button is pushed. The controls light up as expected but no glow. The BROIL igniter glows when activated, lighting the broiler. The new Ignite was packaged very well so it isn't suspect. I LEFT YOU FOR A FEW HOURS. I tested the electrical with a meter and got zero voltage. I removed the wire nuts and using two alligator clips I connected the meter to the bare wires coming from the oven wall. I then hit BAKE again and BINGO! Replaced the defective wire nut and now the igniter is happy as a clam. --- Thanks for your interest and for expediting the material.

took off the door it should be very simple by opening the door just a little bit then pull up the door take out the shellves than take of the bottom of oven usualy there's 2 cap screws in back holding it down then take out the drawer from under the oven & unscrew the bracket that holds the flame pipe from underneath also unscrew the screw from inside the oven the holds the actual flame pipe in front next to the door then unscrew the old igniter from the pipe snip the old wire going out from the igniter & strip it a little & connect the new igniter put on the ceramic cover supplied together with the new igniter connect it back to flame pipe put everything back together you should be done. But make sure the wires are pushed down to underneath as much as you could also when you put back the gas pipe the wire should not be in the way underneath the oven

I followed the other instructions folks had left, and things went very well. I did unscrew the mount to lift the entire flame assembly out, which made getting at the screws for the igniter much easier. Once I had done that, I clipped the wires close to the old igniter, one at a time, then connected them to the wires on the new igniter. The part came with ceramic wire nuts for this, which I was glad for because I wasn't clear how best to connect wires in a heated environment. Put everything back together and it worked perfectly.