79090119010 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed bottom drawer. Pulled Range out away from the wall. Unplugged Range. Removed 6 screws from top back cover. Removed top back cover to reveal the Infinite Switches behind the knobs. Pulled the knobs off of the Switches I wanted to change. Removed the 2 Phillips Head screws holding each switch. Pulled the wires off of the old Infinite Switch and put them on the new Infinite Switch. I was careful to put each wire on the correct terminal from old to new switch. I then reassembled the Range in reverse order. I changed both 8" Burner Infinite Switches. I was only having trouble with 1 switch. But, upon inspection. Both Switches had burn marks on the top left of the switch.

Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked

I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.

The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.

Followed video instructions on your web site.Removing one wire at a time as suggested simplified installation.Somehow i lost burner lens indicator.Ordered it from your website cost $3.84 plus shipping recieved in one day. GREAT SERVICE

Large burner would cycle on and off per temp setting a few times. Then it would stick on high. Read other problems people had with the burner switch, which helped to determine the problem. Instillation per video was pretty straight forward; but the issue I ran into was when pulling off the wires from old switch, there was a short wire which connected to the indicator light. The abrupt release yanked the wire which caused the lens indicator to snap. So, when you are repairing the switch, be aware if there is enough slack in the wires to prevent that issue

Confirm the problem and check electrical diagram to see if there was any other circuit in the syatem that could cause the burner to stay on , remove back cover and inspect switch contacts, found them burnt , look up parts for the model number and replace it.

I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.

Pulled the range out, unplugged it, removed upper back panel, inserted lens through front of control panel, slid the notch on the actual light onto the lip on the back of the plastic lens. Done!

removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine

watched the veido first then un pluged the stove then i took out 6 screws and 2 from the switch and reversed every thing

I got the ex husband to come over and take it apart and fix it, he said that it was a really easy repair to complete.

Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Replaced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.

The gasket just snapped in place. The first one I ordered was, my fault, the wrong one and I returned it and got the correct one two days later.

We removed the back of the stove, unscrewed switch from the stove face and unplugged the wires from the old switch. The new switch was universal so I had to follow the numbers by the prong on the old switch to determine which was the correct prong to plug the wires, plugged them in, screwed the switch back to the stove face and replaced the back Viola all fixed.