79045489503 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.

I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.

I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

FIRST, SHUT OFF the entire CIRCUIT for the range/oven at your breaker panel/fuse box, and verify it is OFF by testing the range/oven. Then...
1) remove range knobs, 2) use flathead screwdriver to unscrew plastic rings beneath knobs, 3) lift up face plate and disconnect oven light switch wires, 4) remove screws for metal plate that knob switches mount to, 5) tilt plate forward and replace each wire onto the new switch, one at a time, being certain to match the markings, 6) remove old switch, by taking out two screws, and put new switch in its place, 7) reassemble everything and your done.

Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.

Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven light switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.

bought drip bowl from big box store and the 8 inch did not fit . yours fit perfect will use you for future diy jobs thank you

Your instructions were spot on. I did have the switch installed 180 degrees out, so I installed it twice. Now I'm a professional. Also gave me opportunity to clean out years of goo in hard to get to places. Next cleaning will be much sooner, now that I know the ease of cover removal. P.S. Great service on delivery. I rec'd part the next day. Nice work guys.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)