79094434701 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Ralph from Peoria, IL
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Infiniti switch needed to be changed.
Quit after getting shocked. New part had different configuration. Hard to see marking for pull and plug from old switch to new switch. New switch had different configuration. After all that and making sure switch worked, got shocked as stove was pushed back to wall. Some other issues with wiring has a shorting out problem. Maybe time to call a pro or get rid of the stove and get the gas stove we have been longing for. Be sure to match points on pulling and plugging as the configuration may be different.
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- Customer:
- ALBERT from LITCHFIELD, CT
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
bad burner switch
removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine
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- Customer:
- Dennis from Corpus Christi, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner would stay on high when switch was on simmer
Disconnected power first. Removed 4 screws on the back of the range, pulled the knob off of the switch, removed 2 small screws on the switch(on the front , under the knob) pulled off the 4 wires with spade connections on the switch. Put wires on the new switch, put in 2 screws on new switch, pushed knob on switch, replaced back cover and tested the new switch. Works great. Took less than 10 mins.
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- Customer:
- James from Louisville, KY
- Parts Used:
- 316557300
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Small plastic lens on control panel broken.
Pulled the range out, unplugged it, removed upper back panel, inserted lens through front of control panel, slid the notch on the actual light onto the lip on the back of the plastic lens. Done!
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Moorestown, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Right Rear burner stopped working
I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.
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- Customer:
- timothy from Kingsland, GA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner not working
Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.
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