79090811402 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.

Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.

I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass
The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.

1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.

With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.

I watched the video on how to do it

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

I unplugged the damaged unit and plugged in the new one.

Unplugged the element and the melted on pot. Plugged in the new element. I thought I might need a whole new cooktop but a new element was very easy to find online.

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

First I unplugged the element that wasn't working and switched it with one that was to confirm that it was the burner element, and not the cooktop wiring, that was the problem. Once that was confirmed, I ordered a new element from partselect.com. Upon arrival of the new element several days later, I plugged it into the empty plug on the cooktop and voila, we're cooking on all 4 again.

replaced it