79095034503 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Royce from KEENE, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner not controlable
Removed rear panal, removed screws from of switch. Unplued wires and installed new switch and put back together. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- Charles from RESTON, VA
- Parts Used:
- 389082702
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Replace the dual-element burner in glasstop range
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
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- Customer:
- James from NEW HYDE PARK, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The switch wasn't working on all the different settings.
first thing was to turn the breakers off. then pull the range away from the wall. used an 1/8 th inch socket to take off the back panel to get access to the switch.used a Phillips screwdriver to disconnect the switch under the knob in the front. took off the wire terminals one at a time and matched it to the numbers on the old switch.replaced the knob, screwed it on to the range. turned the breakers on and tested the switch.worked fine, replaced the back cover and pushed it back into place.
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- Customer:
- Gregory from American Fort, UT
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Burner switch had gone bad.
I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.
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- Customer:
- German from Houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
I could can not control the burner
was easy open the back side of the range and change the part, the only issue was the wire I used the diagram
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- Customer:
- Carl from W SAND LAKE, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
8" burners were not responding correctly to the switches
Pull range away from the wall. Unplug range. Remove back plate covering the switches. Remove defective switch. Use bent paper clip to press center of terminal connectors and disconnect terminals. Reconnect each terminal of new switch as you go to avoid confusing terminals and connectors. Re-attach switch. Plug in range and test elements. Clean range area. Push range back into place, being sure to engage the anti-tip safety device.
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- Customer:
- Jim from UNIONTOWN, PA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Switch quit working and wouldn't turn
Take handle off, then back cover. Of course unplug power. Switch wasn't built exactly like the original but all you have to do is connect each wire to the same letter, number code as on the old one . Works like brand new!
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- Customer:
- Sean from ASTORIA, OR
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Electric element would intermitantly go on high, even on low settings.
Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.
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- Customer:
- greg from SANDY, OR
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
burner switch failure
Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.
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- Customer:
- Sajeed from GRANADA HILLS, CA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The burner on the top left (closest to front) would not turn off.
1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Florence, OR
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Burner was inconsistent the heating with red hot one minute and not the next minute
I watched the video on how to do it
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- Customer:
- David from MOUNT VERNON, ME
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Burners constantly overheating, and inconsistent heating.
With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.
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- Customer:
- adolfo from new york, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The element gets very even the control is at minimum
Removed the defective part. Install the new part, insert the connectors. Now its working
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- Customer:
- Miriam from BROOKLYN, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316278700
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Old screws were damaged
Took out old screws and replaced with new
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- Customer:
- Peter from LEWISTON, ME
- Parts Used:
- 316225001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken element
I followed instructions on your video. Took 10 minutes. My wife thought I was a pro.
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