79091412012 Kenmore Range - Instructions

With no install instructions (NOT good for diy-ers), looked through reviews and watched video for help. Replacement part - not same as original. Had to use magnifying glass to id the terminals / take a picture before disassembly. reassembled - found out terminals are different & black wire is too short. Took off element - rotated the clips one number counter clockwise, reassembled - removed black wire from harness for extra reach. Hooked up, lowered top for test. power on - everything OK. Power off - complete assembly. Power on - test. Seems to be good. When I called customer service for assistance because there was no instruction, they told me I should contact a local appliance repair person. (big joke).

It went easy, I ordered the part from another vendor, received it in 3 days and it only took about 20 minutes to install.
I do not recommend ordering from PartSelect!

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections.
Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.

After settling that it was the Surface Element Switch, ordering and securing the switch, the first step was to disconnect the power to the Oven/Range. Next pull out the Range and remove the back and disconnect the switch from the top of the Range. Using the new switch I removed the wire connectors from the old switch and reconnected them to the new switch in the same spot that they came from. After connections were secure I reattached the switch to the back of the Range and reattached the back of the Range. When everything was back in place the power source was reconnected and that was it.

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from.
The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts.
Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.

removed 2 screws from inside oven door swap out old to new handle reinstall 2 screws done less than 15 min.

replaced it

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

removed back. discovered wrong connector on probe. Cut the connectors off and spliced with small butt connector. Took me longer to find the tools and connector than to do the repair. The wires are very small and require a very small butt connector. Tips by the sales rep and previous customer were helpful. Great service. Will try PartSelect for Cub Cadet and Yamaha OB parts. Thanks. John

I unplugged the stove. Then I lifted up the top of the stove to expose the burners. I unscrewed the necessary screws and plugs that attached the old burner to the stove. Then I simply put the new one back in it's place. The stove was one of those flat burner stoves, and I was a little concerned that I would be able to do it. The repair man wanted to charge me $150.00 for labor.

simple, removed a few screw's, unplugged old burner, plugged in the new one. that was basically it. easy!

Pulled stove away from the wall and unplugged it. Removed probe and cut the wires because the connection clip on the new probe was different from the original. Leave the wires as long as possible because you will need the extra length to splice the clip from the old probe to the wires on the new one. Replaced probe and plugged the oven back in. Done.