79045494502 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.

I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.

I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Flip up top, remove wires and two screws. Replace in opposite way. Turn off power to stove first.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

FIRST, SHUT OFF the entire CIRCUIT for the range/oven at your breaker panel/fuse box, and verify it is OFF by testing the range/oven. Then...
1) remove range knobs, 2) use flathead screwdriver to unscrew plastic rings beneath knobs, 3) lift up face plate and disconnect oven light switch wires, 4) remove screws for metal plate that knob switches mount to, 5) tilt plate forward and replace each wire onto the new switch, one at a time, being certain to match the markings, 6) remove old switch, by taking out two screws, and put new switch in its place, 7) reassemble everything and your done.

Remove door per the manufacturer instructions (open the door and slide the keepers over the hook part of the hinge and then just pull the door out of the frame - no dismantling while attached to the oven), dismantled the door )about twelve screws around the perimeter of the door) and replaced both hinges. was much easier than I had anticipated. I ordered the parts regular fed ex ground and received within 3 days. I was totally surprised to get exactly what I ordered that fast. I would definitely use Partselect again. Great price and great service. Easy to order.

ordered switch for on, off. Turned power off at breaker.opened oven door, underneath top console there are four philip screws.. remove top and take slotted screwdriver and unscrew four plastic nuts. I used pocket knife..remove plastic cover , and then remove four more philip screws to remove metal plate that holds all four control switchs. remove two screws that held switch in place
and unplug wires and plug new switch in... Saftey first gentlemen, there is no ifs and buts or maybes when it comes to your life.. make sure you turn your power off.. works like a charm , can adjust heat from 1 to hi..thanks for partselect great price and speedy shipping...James K. Luper

Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.

Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.

Self easy

PS Great service Super FAST.
Thanks Jesse

Disconnected power at breaker. Removed cooktop mounting screws, lifted top and propped in up position. Removed two screws and lowered two front burners mounting frame. Wiggled dual element free at the clips and proceeded to swap wires one at a time and realized the difference with connectors 1a and 2b much later when only the center portion was heating up. Finally figured out the problem and everything works as advertised. Pay attention if you own a Kenmore product.

Followed on-line instructions to remove the defective heating element. Some connection tabs on the replacement unit were different than the original. One tab was too wide to accept the stove's slip-on wire connector without fling down the tab width on the heating element. Thanks to some on-line instructions, wire connections to element 1a and 2a had to be reversed. If not for those instructions I would probably have ended up sending the unit back to the supplier, as an incorrect replacement !