79096009602 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Dale from VERMONTVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Surface element would stay on high no matter the position of selector knob
First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.
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- Customer:
- Sean from ASTORIA, OR
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Electric element would intermitantly go on high, even on low settings.
Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.
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- Customer:
- Steven from Edina, MN
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Large front burner would not come on under setting of "3"
Replaced infinite control very easily.
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- Customer:
- greg from SANDY, OR
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
burner switch failure
Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.
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- Customer:
- adolfo from new york, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The element gets very even the control is at minimum
Removed the defective part. Install the new part, insert the connectors. Now its working
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- Customer:
- Deane from WINCHESTER, KY
- Parts Used:
- 316490000
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
temp. probe
Easy watched on line video
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- Customer:
- Joel from North Mankato, MN
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Arcing could be heard (and later seen) inside the switch
Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.
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- Customer:
- Phil from KERSEY, PA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
sparking element
removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back
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- Customer:
- Craig from FAYETTEVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316490000
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not reach temperature or it would finally reach temp but would not stay warm.
Pulled oven away from cabinet area
Unplugged oven from wall outlet
Removed screws to free top panel from back of oven
Removed screws to free lower panel from back of oven
Probe backing was now exposed
Unplugged probe from connector
Removed one screw from probe housing
Twisted probe housing counterclockwise then pulled probe out
Reversed the process to install probe
Plugged probe into connector
Reversed the panel removal process
Plugged oven back in to wall outlet
Turned on oven and tested with no further issue
Unplugged oven from wall outlet
Removed screws to free top panel from back of oven
Removed screws to free lower panel from back of oven
Probe backing was now exposed
Unplugged probe from connector
Removed one screw from probe housing
Twisted probe housing counterclockwise then pulled probe out
Reversed the process to install probe
Plugged probe into connector
Reversed the panel removal process
Plugged oven back in to wall outlet
Turned on oven and tested with no further issue
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- Customer:
- Terry from CHELSEA, OK
- Parts Used:
- 316490000
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
I had a F31 code which means oven isn't working
Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working.
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?
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- Customer:
- Denise from Landover, MD
- Parts Used:
- 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
light bilb went out
replaced it
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My oven door seal was worn and did not seat properly. It leaked heat.The infinite burner was not warming in the low heat positions
I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.
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- Customer:
- Amy from Corona, CA
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lens cover for oven light broke.
Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.
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- Customer:
- Sharon from Foley, AL
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341, 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken globe in oven and burnt out light bulb
Easy as 1-2-3
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- Customer:
- Fred from North Babylon, NY
- Parts Used:
- 5303935271
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
left terminal broke off from the base of the block causing circuit breaker to trip and not able to be re-set
Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.
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