62960009606 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

pull oven out and Un-plug oven remove screws from back panel , un plug wires from old heating element. open oven door and remove the two screws that was holding the the old heating element, pull it out . Install the new heating element and replace screw. plug wires to the heating element in the back of oven. Replace back panel. plug oven back in. and test

IMPORTANT NOTE: This element is shaped like a B. The straight line part of the B, which is closest to the back part of the oven, doesn't light up. At first I thought it was a defective part. My husband is the cook and I never realized this. This fact isn't indicated in the instruction booklet which came with the oven. My sister has the same oven and she didn't realize it doesn't light up either. I looked up installation instructions on You Tube and although I was very nervous, it was easy to install. It's a little awkward because the wires are in the back of the oven so have a flashlight handy.

First I unpluged the range from the power source. Then I removed the back cover, disconnected the two wires to the element, remover two screws on the inside of the oven the held the element in place and removed it. I then installed the new element in the reverse order. This took about one day to get the new part and 15 to 20 mins to do the repairs. I figured that I saved at least $55 on a repairman service call.

remove two screws, remove two slide on wire connections and remove element. reverse to install.

I removed the two screws, puled out the element and took the pliers to unhook the two wires.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

Looked at parts blow-up, watched a You-Tube video,

Had to remove 4 small rusty screws and a sort of guard made of metal. With power off, I had no light to see way in the back of the oven. Suggest use of a head-lamp.
Also, it would have been very helpful if when the part arrived, it was noted somewhere that a smell and “smoking” from the part is very normal. This would have saved me a tremendous amount of stress and more days without the broiler trying to figure out if I did something wrong, if the part was bad or other. Sounds so simple, but BOY, that would have been SO helpful

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

Hiring a repair man was going to be expensive, and I saw the part was cheap and others had said this was an easy job to do. I figured I'd give it a shot even though I have very little experience repairing things and there was no help coming from my husband. I followed the instruction of others, unscrewing two screws and pulling the broken element out. The metal that capped the ends of the broken piece needed to be removed. One came off easily. The other took a bit of wiggling to get off. A mistake I made was, by accident, one of the wires coming from behind the stove got pushed back through the hole in the oven wall.. I needed to fish it out with tweezers, but thankfully, that was easily retrieved. Once I put the caps on the new piece, I had some trouble reaching the plate to screw it back into place. I removed the oven door, which helped a lot, but then found it a little tricky to get the oven door back on. Despite the little set backs, I still did it myself in around 15 minutes. I'm delighted to have my oven back without paying a fortune!

Turned off circuit breaker. Unscrewed old element holders from inside broiler - 4 screws. Pulled old element out to expose slip on wire connection at end. R&R with the new one. Screwed assembly back in. Turned on CB and tested. Good to go.