79090832602 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

First I took the door off. Then I removed about a dozen screws. Than my wife insisited on cleaning the other two windows! Since the inside window was broken ;a lot of grease had gotten on the other two windows.She said she would never have another chance. After that I put everything back together. It took about an hour all together.

my dad and i did it together and it was easy. just had to remove the screws on the outside oven door pull the door apart, remove the old glass and put in the new and put the screws back in. hardest part was to get some of the screws out because they had been in so long.

It went okay but I had to have some help putting it back together. One person held the glass while the other person tightened the screws.

Easy to open package and plug in unit! Too simple and quite happy with end results!

I just plugged it into the receptacle on the stovetop and turned the thing on, and it worked! I'd been without the 4th burner for quite some time. Nice to have it back!

ordered a new one and I put it inn.Pluged inn and I was ready to cook!

Tilted the surface unit and proped it up with the metal arm then I unpluged the old 8"-surface element and replaced it with the new 8"-surface element that I purchased from PartSelect.com. I then lowered the surface unit turned the burner knob on and everything worked fine. Thanks PartSelect.com.

Very easy to repair! I removed the old burner and slid the new burner element in its place. It was as simple as that! No tools required. My one and only complaint would be that the old burner was slightly larger (within 1 inch or so) than the new one so the new one sits slightly crooked on the stove top. But it works just fine. The item also shipped very quickly. Within a day or two. I am very satisfied with the transaction overall.

took screws on outer sides and then removed glass put in new glass replaced screws done

Very simple with instructions supplied, Removed two screws inside on back of door, then removed four more screws to get to inner glass,removed broken glass installed new glass, replaced all screws.Job completed. very good instructions,Thank You.

removed back. discovered wrong connector on probe. Cut the connectors off and spliced with small butt connector. Took me longer to find the tools and connector than to do the repair. The wires are very small and require a very small butt connector. Tips by the sales rep and previous customer were helpful. Great service. Will try PartSelect for Cub Cadet and Yamaha OB parts. Thanks. John

Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.

I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.

My brother is a licensed electrician, so the job was relatively easy for him. The pieces of insulation were pre-cut to fit, so there was no trimming involved. He tilted the oven over on its back to replace the piece of insulation under the oven. Removed the metal panel between the storage drawer and oven bottom, removed the soiled insulation and wiped everything down with vinegar. Placed the new insulation and reinstalled the metal panel and drawer. Removed the oven/range top and again removed the soiled insulation, wiped everything down and installed the new insulation (this piece of insulation was the wrap around one that goes under the range top - across the top of the oven and down both sides). Replaced the oven top, then did the back panel - this one was the most time consuming, due to the need to disconnect some of the wiring and sensors, as well as having to loosen the panel where the control knobs are located in order to remove the inner panel to get to the insulation. The insulation was precut to fit around the oven light bulb, so just had to make sure we installed it right side up :). Have used the oven several times since and no more smell!!