79096343502 Kenmore Range - Instructions

After settling that it was the Surface Element Switch, ordering and securing the switch, the first step was to disconnect the power to the Oven/Range. Next pull out the Range and remove the back and disconnect the switch from the top of the Range. Using the new switch I removed the wire connectors from the old switch and reconnected them to the new switch in the same spot that they came from. After connections were secure I reattached the switch to the back of the Range and reattached the back of the Range. When everything was back in place the power source was reconnected and that was it.

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from.
The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts.
Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.

However the 1a 1b etc. Are very hard to see thus the need to magnify. Then it was easy.
I must say the guy I talked to was very nice.

Peel off old ( might have to use a putty blade to get it started] then put on the new overlay.

I wanted the bracket for the oven heating element and received the bracket for the broiler.... part returned and now I am stumped about what my next move will be

replaced it

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

remove back panel took out old part splice wire replaced

Easy as 1-2-3

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

This is a slide in oven fully contained not in a wall, or wood enclosure. I slid the unit out away from the wall unplugged the power cord, used the nut driver to remove a dozen screws, not all of them, you dont need to pull the top back plate off just unscrew the bottom 3-4 screws on the top plate to release the lower back cover plate and you see the probe wire and the insertion point/hole. I actually did not even need to pull the full back plate off but it makes the handling of all the tools and stripping easier. I wish they had just left the plug off of the new probe and had left the 2 loose ends of the 2 wires that had to be spliced, it would have saved 15 minutes just with that part. If you dont have a real splicer tool ya gotta be careful to not cut the wires themselves if you use a sharp knife. Just cut the new probe plug off and splice on the old plug from the bad sensor which obviously you have cut and strip as well as I did and then it fits nicely back together like it was ment to be. I put elect tape on the 2 splices, you could use small wire nuts or whatever you desire, but turn the exposed splices back away from each other and tape them to the insulated wire so no exposed wire is touching any metal then I wrapped the completed taped splices with about a 4x5 piece of aluminum foil to help deflect the residual heat coming from the oven when it is on. put the probe through the hole and placed the metal retainer back in place and re- mounted the back panel plate,cover, that was it problem solved. This entire problem was caused originally in this relatively new oven because people who have been using the oven were sitting heavy pots and pans on the oven door and the hinges were sprung. The door would not stay shut during cooking. I dont know how long this had been going on before I discovered the issue. Once I replaced the hinges ( parts select ) the uneven, wrong temp, extended cooking problem jumped up. I am certain it was related to the open door not shutting for several months. They were using a bungie cord to pull the door closed and not completely. At this point I feel very comfortable with using parts select for all my appliance parts and advice. The folks here at my facility think I am an Einstien but when you have parts select working with you in the background you can't go wrong. I asked a hundred questions and learned alot and saved the facility at least 400 dollars by doing it myself. Thanks to my new work buddy PARTS SELECT. I was really a bit apprehensive about the doors hinges they looked dangerous and might have been but the tech I spoke with at P.S. walked me through it on the phone and I read the blogs which are really helpfull SORRY THIS ONE IS SO LONG.

Pulled out range, unplugged power used nut driver to remove back and removed oven probe. Had to change end and reinstalled in reverse order.

Turned off electric at the main box. Removed glass top. Used a razor knife to pry the connections loose so that the new connections could be slid in. Problem was that the element ordered looked entirely different then the original one. Even the hookup was different. But once the connections were made, the ceramic top placed on top, and the electric restored everything seemed okay. The warmer works and when it heats up the warning light turns on. When the warmer cools the warning light goes off as it should.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti