79070291402 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Unplugged the appl. I removed the bottom of the oven. Disconnected the two wires. Removed two screws that hold the element in place. Replaced it. And put everything back together. Since this element goes bad about every year an a half, I keep one on hand all the time.

Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. Stripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.

I removed the oven floor and subfloor. I detached the old ignighter leaving the wires still attached. I then attached the new ignighter and fed each of the two new wires down through the bottom of the oven floor following the same path of the old wires which were still attached. I attached the new wires one at a time to make sure I connected them to the right place. Then, I pulled out the old igniter. I then attached the oven floors and turned the oven on which now works. The tough part is pulling the oven out from the wall to disconnect the power and turn off the gas. I did not remove the oven door.

1 - I unplugged the oven/ stove connection.
2 - Removed 2 screws and lifted it out the floor of the oven.
3 - Removed the nut holding down the flame guard and lifted it out.
4 - Removed 2 screes that held igniter in place.
5 - cut the wires for igniter.
6 - Stripped new wires with the nuts connector.
7 - Installed new igniter with 2 screws.
8 - Put it all back together step 3 & 2.
9 - Plugged in the oven/stove connection.
10 - Turn on the oven and works perfectly.
11 - My wife and daughter happy and ready to bake.

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

I saw a chart of the oven door at site after I finally got the model number. I actually thought I had ordered the wrong part, third door in was last pane I thought, but actually this is inner most oven door, glass panel four. I had to find a correct screw diver which took awhile. I thought I didn't have the strength to turn the necessary screws, but easily could with correct screw driver. I followed other stories about removing handle, spring loaded door, so be careful it pops apart. A bit tricky to put back together, cause you have to hold door together against spring when you put cap on and door handle. Remove handle, remove top plastic cap. Will see screws holding glass and aluminum shield in place. Remove shield, need to remove screws holding glass two panes with holder. Shield pulls back and this glass just drops in. Reassemble door.

replaced it

removed the old igniter, installed the new one. 15 minutes, piece o cake!

First, I read all the instrutions that came with my replacement part from Parts Select thoroughly (twice) then follewed them like an experienced surgeon. I removed the lower drawr after turning off the gas and unplugging the stove and then took out the bottom panels inside the oven to expose the screws holding the ignitor coil. Removed it, then cnnected the new one to the existing wires as they were in the stove and the drawing in the instructions, then replaced everything in the reverse of them coming apart. Plugged it back in, turned the gas back on and now it,ll bake things again. YEAH!! Parts Select!!!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I made sure I memorized just how the wires would re-connect with the wirenuts. I then re-assembled everything. Be sure to read all the instructions, especially how to properly install wirenuts. I was able to access the wire connections below the oven chamber through the drawer at the bottom of the range. This is an important detail.

the igniter is real easy to put in

From the front I cut the wires going to the old igniter and removed it. Then I stripped insulation back 3/8 of an inch. Using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter, I connected the new wires to the existing. Then I installed the new igniter and the job was done. I turned on the thermostat and the oven ignited quicker than it had for some time.

First I removed the oven door screws, then I removed the outer handle and then there were 2 more sets of screws that actually held 2 panes of glass onto the door.

Unplugged stove, removed floor of oven, removed two screws holding igniter, cut wires to igniter, installed new igniter, cut and stripped wires on new igniter and leads, connected new ingiter with supplied ceramic wire nuts, tested (worked perfectly!), then replaced oven floor.

It was a snap!

I first removed the 2 screws that held the oven floor in place. Once removed, I remove the cover plate that covered the ignitor.

In order to get to the ignitor wires, I had to remove the drawer. Once the drawer was removed, I marked which wire went to which spot on the ignitor, then cut the wires. I then removed the old ignitor by removing 2 screws. I then attached the new ignitor with the 2 screws and attached the wires using the enclose wire nuts.

The complete process was very easy, taking less than half an hour. The part with shipping was just over $50. If I paid someone to fix my problem it would have cost at least $200. I'm sure galad I found this web site.