66575274501 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Unplugged stove.
Pulled stove out.
Unscrewed screws and removed cover.
Removed & replaced sensor.
Reinstalled cover & screws.
Plugged in stove and pushed back in.
Only problem was when I pulled stove out, lid opened and disconnected the gas line to a burner.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

replaced light socket but did not repair problem. must have burned the motherboard.


pleased with service from your company.

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Turned off CB for the oven,Remove the oven from the cabinet , remove the back of the oven, replaced the light Assembly. turned on CB for the oven, tested the light. and truned off the CB and replace the back and reinstalled the oven in the cabinet.

We needed a repair man to do the job because we did not have the tool to remove the screws on the burner heads. Also the on line diagram was not accurate. It actually was much simpler than showed in the diagram. Had we done the job, we would have done a lot of dismantling. The repair man removed the old top in a flash and the whole job took about 40 minutes. He knew what he was doing. Detailed instructions should come with the part so the do-it-yourselfer could figure out how to do the job.

I used the allen wrenches to block the hinges, removed the oven door and used the kitchen counter for a work station. I removed the trim piece at the bottom which released the side trim and oven glass front, and then reversed the procedure. It took more time to clean things than to do the exchange. My only issue is with Fed Ex who delived the first trim piece bent in the middle inside a crushed box. Part Select had another part sent the same day after I called them.

Took off the screws on the back of the stove and took out the sensor, and put in the new one.

oven would not light but broiler and range top would. removed oven racks. removed 2 finger tight screws on oven pan floor and pulled up oven floor. also removed storage drawer under oven- also 2 screws. now your oven should look like the inside of your gas grill. removed 2 more screws on burner plate and removed plate. unplugged igniter and 2 screws holding igniter. replaced igniter and put together in reverse order. oven now works perfectly

Remove the plug from outlet then shutoff gas. Remove the 10 screws hold the back panel of the oven. Unclip the connector of the temperature sensor from the main line. Pull the sensor straightout. Reverse the process install the new sensor. Couldn't be any easier. Oven working great. Calling in a reapairman would have cost $200 for parts and labor.

Pulled shelves out removed bottom plate of oven remove heat shield cover removed screws had to remove bottom drawer disconnect wire from bottom of igniter and remove from top side . Replaced by reversing steps.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

Clean off all broken glass and wipe down the debree,figure what side the glass goes then unscewed the base then the sides then add gorrilla glue on the edges to help set the glass in place had some hold it the screw th center bottom in first then got the sides in place with the bottom rack then screw it all back in to place making sure the side and top were in place right that was it.

The first thing you need to do is remove the racks from your oven.

Then look around at the back of your oven for the screws that hold the bottom pan down.

Remove those screws and remove the pan. Some need to slide back and then come up others will just pull up.

Remove the heat shield that is over the burner.

Remove the bottom drawer of your oven.

Now you should be able to see the igniter that sits on an angle by the burner tubes with a couple of wires coming out of it.

Removing the screws that hold the igniter is probably the most difficult part with some ovens. Sometimes it is easier to remove the whole bracket that holds the igniter and then remove and replace the igniter out of the oven.

The wires for the igniter will go to a Molex plug. Follow the wires and undo the plug. On many units it will be below the oven in the drawer opening at the top back. You will need to lay flat on the floor and reach back in to do this.

Once you have the old igniter out then you can carefully install the new one.

Check to make sure that you can feed the Molex plug and wires down through to the bottom before fastening the igniter.

Once the igniter is secured and the plug is connected, you can then replace the other parts in the reverse order that they came out.