79036693505 Kenmore Range - Instructions

This was very easy. Just remove the bottom of the oven by removing the two screw in the back. Then remove the baffle from under that and you of will see the ingniter. The one wire will reach the gas valve, just splce the other. 6 screws is all it takes. Turned it on worked perfectly.

replaced it

On this website, I found an instruction manual for this stove. There were 2 pages about how to change the glass on the oven door, including diagrams. I'd also checked a generic youtube video on changing inner glass on oven doors too, although the hinges in the youtube demo weren't exactly like those in mine. I printed out the instructions, checked the oven door to make sure the hinges looked like those in the diagrams, set aside a couple of hours on a free day with no other distractions, and did the job. I just kept removing screws from the inside oven door, peeling back the layers of the onion, until I got to the innermost glass, which was cracked. Put the new glass in, put it back together. On youtube the guy said it would take 20 minutes. It took me about an hour. Saved a ton of money by doing it myself.

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

took the old igniter out and swapped the connectors onto the new one. Kept the connectors close to the connector end to prevent them from being to close to the ovens heat.

Removed the two screws, took out the old one and replaced the new one. It was very easy and the oven works great now. Thanks.

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. Turn off gas and unplug oven. Removed the broiler drawer, cut wires, unscrewed oven igniter (using a small/medium adjustable wrench), connected wires, fastened new igniter to bracket, spliced wire, twisted together, plugged oven back in, turned gas on, turned on oven after a few minutes...worked great.

I just sent in a generic description of my problem and a couple of ideas on what it might be. Within 2 days an online repair person answered me back with the solution. I ordered the part and 2 days later I was back in business and baking cookies.

Removed 2 screws to oven bottom
Remove one nut that holds gas rail deflector
Removed 2 screws that held Igniterto the fuel rail
Cut 2 wires to the Igniter
attached 2 wires from new Igniter using ceramic wire nuts (Suplied with new part)
Install same as removal

pulled stove out to unplug the electric cord. Took oven door off and removed the bottom panel (2 screws) and then removed the burner (2 screws). took off old igniter ( 2 nut screws). cut wires and stripped the coating to wire to new unit.
Attached new igniter to the burner, and put the burner back in place and replaced the screws so unit was stable.
Turned oven on to make sure ingiter was going to light oven, when oven came on, turned oven off and replaced the cover to the burner and the bottom panel in the oven,. Put the oven door back on........
Probably took 45 minutes.
I ordered the part late Friday afternoon, around 3, and the part was here Saturday Afternoon. I was impressed.

Remove the oven drip pan & burner baffle. unscrew & cut leads to remove old igniter. Splice old leads to new using furnished wire nuts and remount. Job would have been easier with oven door removed, but didnt want to create a new project.