79071314707 Kenmore Range - Instructions

The gasket just snapped in place. The first one I ordered was, my fault, the wrong one and I returned it and got the correct one two days later.

The Conversion Kit was throughall with extra fittings and good instructions. My problem was haveing to pay a lisence gas installer $65.00 an hour to do a safety & pressure test. Maybee future Conversion kits would include a cheap disposable pressure tester with hose, then it would be a complete done job by the owner.

Very easy--just had to drill new holes for the clips because the are already pre set in the rubber gasket

Pulled stove away from the wall and unplugged it. Removed probe and cut the wires because the connection clip on the new probe was different from the original. Leave the wires as long as possible because you will need the extra length to splice the clip from the old probe to the wires on the new one. Replaced probe and plugged the oven back in. Done.

Unplug the stove from the wall socket. Remove the oven door as shown in the instructions for replacing the door. This makes the job a lot easier. At the rear of the bottom panel there is a screw at each corner. Remove these screws, a screwdriver will loosen them, then remove by hand. If you have a convection oven remove the fan cover as this prevents the bottom panel from coming out. There is a screw at the top and the bottom of the cover. You can then gently lift the bottom panel at the rear and work it out of the front lip. Install the new bottom panel in reverse order.

We took off all of the bolts holding the burner assembly's in place . Then took the top of the s range off. Used a wrench to remove the old assembly and re-placed it with the new one. It took longer to get all of the top and under cover off then to put the new part in. Very good service from Part Select. MATT

Timer was bad. Removed the four screws on the rear panel, and then the four screws holding the timer in place. I let the old one dangle by the wires until the new one was in place, then just switched the wires one at a time. There is one set that has a plastic connector, and you need a small flat screwdriver to depress the locking tab on the top of the connector to release it. Be sure and order a new face plate as the old one will not come off without tearing. Re-install rear cover and your done.

Would have been simple if Frigidare had not changed the plastic snap wire connector on the part. The replacement part had a different snap together wire connection. After a couple of phone calls stating that the new part and the old part had different part numbers was informed that you have to snip off the ends and use wire connects but it was the right part. Once I knew that it was a simple repair if you have the wire connects to connect the wires.

turn the gas off unplugged it form electric removed the line took the flame plate off removed burner tube and the screw out with a nut driver that was all just put it back in reverse

changed the orfices with a 10mm socket and driver handle used an adjustable wrench to tighten the orfice in the bottom of the oven approximately 45 minutes we were using the range

removed back. discovered wrong connector on probe. Cut the connectors off and spliced with small butt connector. Took me longer to find the tools and connector than to do the repair. The wires are very small and require a very small butt connector. Tips by the sales rep and previous customer were helpful. Great service. Will try PartSelect for Cub Cadet and Yamaha OB parts. Thanks. John

The foul order was the cause of a "Mummified Rat" that I found on the bottom Left /outside wall of the oven. I first Unplugged the stove and turned off the gas. I removed the grates and the burners. Each burner is held down with two (2) 3/16" screws which makes it a total of eight (8) screws in all. After removing all eight screws, you can now pop up the burner lid with a putty knife or a large Screw Driver. I used a large screw driver, After removing the "Lid" you will then see the "Insulation Blanket" draped over the oven, to remove this blanket there are two (2) copper wires securing the blanket in place, you'll have to cut these in order to install your New Blanket. Removing the "Blanket " is a "No Brainer" just be cautious and don't snag any of the "Igniter Wires" The "Insulation Blanket" goes on one way, this can be identified by the pre-cuts on the blanket. I started out on the left side of the stove, and had the right side of the "Blanket rolled up. As I tucked the "Blanket" under the "igniter Wires" and slowly and gently feeding it with my left hand till it lines up with the pre-cut and drapes itself into place as you maneuver it down with your hands Now start with the right side by unrolling the "Blanket" and following the same procedure making sure the "Insulation Blanket" is fully extended on both sides of the oven.

Replaced temp probe and checked OK. This model did not have a full back as the instructional video showed. No cover to remove at all. Only suggestion might be to include two wire nuts of proper size. Average wire nut would be too big. Fortunately, I happened to have a couple.