79079383402 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Cut off power at fuse panel. pulled stove out from wall went behind stove removed back panels in area of sensor that I could see from the front side, inside oven. Located sensor from rear & unpluged senser from wiring bundle reached inside oven & removed screws from sensor. Pulled sensor out & threaded wire through hole. Took old & new sensors to bench in shop. Plug on new not the same as old. Had to change plug Cut and stripped wires. Wire is very small, need to use a good stripper. Twisted wire together & soldered connection, used shrink wrap to insulate wire. Took part inside and reinstalled in reverse order. Used 1/4 inch nutdriver on total job start to finish.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

The repair was nothing, but the diagnosis was a bit tricky. After carefully looking at the burner head, (cast aluminum) I pretty much figured out that the 4 small cast aluminum bumps that keep the burner cap positioned up in the air the correct amount to allow gas to flow under the cap, were worn down, preventing the gas from exiting properly by the igniter. My guess was correct. The new burner head solved all my problems. I love Parts Select for the ease of finding the correct parts and how fast they ship their orders. Great company, great service. Keep up the good work

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

Started by replacing element which was clearly broken. Still no heat. So then I changed the oven sensor. Was disappointed that when I received the sensor I had to cut and splice the connector that was on it with the old one that came off the old sensor. Did that and still no heat so I had to buy a new clock/timer. Went to another store for that because of the connector not being the right type and there was no picture of the clock/timer like the other website. Overall ok, normall troubleshooting steps, just wish I didn't have to cut and splice the connector on the new sensor I purchased from here.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

Sensor very accessible. Pull off the back panel, disconect the sensor and slide out from back of oven. The original plug was cut off the sensor, as well as the new one to get the proper connector type on the new sensor. Soldered and heat shrink, and presto we had our new sensor ready for install. Install was about 5 minutes which included putting the back panel on the range. Pretty easy and works like new. Total time for project was about 20 minutes.

After 15 minutes of frustration and back breaking I removed the oven door and had much better access to the panel, from there on it was all down hill.

Simple: remove the element by hand and replace new one.

I can't believe how quickly I received my new part -literally next day.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

Turn off gas,unplug,unbolt the burners(you have to do this to keep from bending and or kinking over the gas lines.Luck kept me from bending the lines out of whack.)All I needed was the electrode but I couldn’t find it available separately.I had to buy the whole front burner.Anyway remove the clip from the new part slide the electrode out.Tilt the top of the range up take the clip off of the old electrode slide it out put the new one in install clip.Plug it in,rebolt all the burners in.Careful not to bend the gas lines.put the top down turn on the gas,plug it in and light.