79075721993 Kenmore Range - Instructions

See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

Remove oven racks and bottom oven panel cover.Removed old igniter.one screw was stripped so that slowed me down quite a bit! Used a small vise grip tool to remove screw! installed new ignighter,cut existing wires; spliced in new wires( be sure to unplug appliance) tested ok. Reassembled.

I bought and paid for 4 drip pans for my Tappan stove. I received 4 metal ones. With your authorization I returned them,
paying $18.00 postage. Since it was your mistake a believe you should reimburse me for that expense.

Mary Lee
(703)578-1942

I removed the screws holding the element in place. Then I screwed in the new part. No problem at all.

older range required no tools to repair, pulled old gasket out of notches at bottom of door, popped clips out of pre-drilled holes, folded new gasket ends {2 inches} and pushed into door, pushed clips into place.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

Unpluged unit then using a flat screwdriver pride out old switch,pull off wires replace on new switch & push new switch in place. Repluged unit reset clock. Done!

Lifted the drawer out from the oven and removed top and bottom screws. Replaced the handle and tightened the screws.

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.

I pulled the melted knobs off and replaced with new ones.

Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.

1- put in new thermostat 2- put in new gas valve 3- put in oven igniter ....3rd time a charm. Now I have all new oven parts! My husband installed and said it was pretty easy, have to take the oven door off and inside bottom out.

I removed the oven door using a phillips screwdriver. It was very easy because I didn't have to worry about the door hinges springing the door back. I'm not really handy and it went very easy.