79095044502 Kenmore Range - Instructions

removed back. discovered wrong connector on probe. Cut the connectors off and spliced with small butt connector. Took me longer to find the tools and connector than to do the repair. The wires are very small and require a very small butt connector. Tips by the sales rep and previous customer were helpful. Great service. Will try PartSelect for Cub Cadet and Yamaha OB parts. Thanks. John

The video was a great help. I could have replaced the switch without watching it, but it gave me confidence that I was doing it right. Everything went just like he said it would. Burner seems to work better now and no more scary noises.

The gasket just snapped in place. The first one I ordered was, my fault, the wrong one and I returned it and got the correct one two days later.

My brother is a licensed electrician, so the job was relatively easy for him. The pieces of insulation were pre-cut to fit, so there was no trimming involved. He tilted the oven over on its back to replace the piece of insulation under the oven. Removed the metal panel between the storage drawer and oven bottom, removed the soiled insulation and wiped everything down with vinegar. Placed the new insulation and reinstalled the metal panel and drawer. Removed the oven/range top and again removed the soiled insulation, wiped everything down and installed the new insulation (this piece of insulation was the wrap around one that goes under the range top - across the top of the oven and down both sides). Replaced the oven top, then did the back panel - this one was the most time consuming, due to the need to disconnect some of the wiring and sensors, as well as having to loosen the panel where the control knobs are located in order to remove the inner panel to get to the insulation. The insulation was precut to fit around the oven light bulb, so just had to make sure we installed it right side up :). Have used the oven several times since and no more smell!!

Unplugged stove. Quickly unscrewed back panel (4 screws). Popped the wires off one at a time attaching them to the new switch. Pulled the knob off the front, unscrewed screws, and put new switch in repeating previous steps in reverse. Put the panel back on, plugged it up, and pushed it back into place. Done.

So simple....removed back panel, removed knob from front of range and removed 2 screws holding the knob in. Used needle nose pliers to pull wires off existing switch, placed wires in identical spots on new switch. Put switch post through front of range and put the 2 screws back in and the knob on. Finished and ready to go in less than 10 minutes. No more sparking....

Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Replaced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.

Touch up paint was easy to apply. I gave it a few coats and you cannot tell where to chip was. I wish you had a standard mail delivery option. I paid twice the price of the paint for fed ex delivery. I didn, t need the paint next day but it did get here before the estimated deliverydatee.

removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine

I am an electrician so I had no problem identifying wire and connecting them properly. However there were no instructions provided with the part and the configuration of the new switch was different than the the old one. I doubt if a DIY individual would have been capable of handling this task. Also there were no safety warning with respect to electrical repairs, which is a must today.

We removed the back of the stove, unscrewed switch from the stove face and unplugged the wires from the old switch. The new switch was universal so I had to follow the numbers by the prong on the old switch to determine which was the correct prong to plug the wires, plugged them in, screwed the switch back to the stove face and replaced the back Viola all fixed.

Timer was bad. Removed the four screws on the rear panel, and then the four screws holding the timer in place. I let the old one dangle by the wires until the new one was in place, then just switched the wires one at a time. There is one set that has a plastic connector, and you need a small flat screwdriver to depress the locking tab on the top of the connector to release it. Be sure and order a new face plate as the old one will not come off without tearing. Re-install rear cover and your done.

Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.

Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.