79078789400 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Followed the included instructions. Removed oven door. Partially removed inside side shields at warming drawers to get to hinge pivot plate. Replaced both hinge plates.
Disassembled door and replaced spring loaded hinge unit.
The hardest part was getting the self tapping screws into the new hinge pieces. After realizing I had the right size square drive bit I put that in my drill/driver and things went a lot easier.

removed shelves and base, removed 2 screws that held igniter on, disconnected wires from gas valve removed protective cover in corner {1 screw}
disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model

Simple: remove the element by hand and replace new one.

I can't believe how quickly I received my new part -literally next day.

First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of the oven and it popped right out.

There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.

Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

My Tappan Tail:

Open the oven and remove the racks, turn on the oven light.
Remove two screws in the back to remove the bottom plate. Mine are about 1 1/4 in. long.
Remove one nut holding the butterfly plate in place. Ignitor will be exposed.

Turn off the oven light and unplug oven. Don't drop the plug behind the oven, I was ready for that one.
Drop light or flash light will be needed, it's dark in there. And something to sit on, 16" old plastic milk caddy, I just happen to have one.

Remove the two screws holding the ignitor, don't cut the wires just yet. Take note where the wiring runs. Install the new ignitor. My wires went behind the gas piping.

I cut the bottom wire from the old ignitor first, up close to the ceramic. Wire shield can be reused, slide it over the new wire. Cut the old wire, leave a lot. Trim the new wire to desired length and strip the ends of both and use the ceramic cap and connect the wires.
Do the top wire.
Slide the wire shield next to the igniter, adjust the wires so the wire shields won't slide away from ignitor. With the butterfly shield back in place it's time to plug it in and give it a test.
Nice.
Replace the bottom plate of oven, screw holes hard to find. Had to use an awl to find the holes to line up the screws. I also didn't push the front of the plate down into place until I had the screws started. It helped.

You might think this is overkill, but how many of us have ever replaced the ignitor. Not me.
I do a lot of DIY's. I'll rate this as a 1, easy.

What shall I bake first, cornbread of course. I my cast iron skillet.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

Working on an old oven is difficult. Please expect the unexpected. The years of heating and cooling play havoc with oven parts. The screws holding the Flat Style Oven Ignitor become stripped. It took extra time to remove them. I had to go to the hardware store to buy replacement screws. Once I removed the old parts and had replacement screws the job was very easy.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

took the two screws out by hand, slipped out the ruined panel, slid the new one in place, replaced the two screws...simple as that

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

get liquid wrench, remove oven door(2 screws) remove oven bottom(2 screws) follow directions included with part. unplug or shut off electricity at breaker panel, Have a good light source.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.