79094212401 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens

Started by replacing element which was clearly broken. Still no heat. So then I changed the oven sensor. Was disappointed that when I received the sensor I had to cut and splice the connector that was on it with the old one that came off the old sensor. Did that and still no heat so I had to buy a new clock/timer. Went to another store for that because of the connector not being the right type and there was no picture of the clock/timer like the other website. Overall ok, normall troubleshooting steps, just wish I didn't have to cut and splice the connector on the new sensor I purchased from here.

TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE

Removed control panel cover. Verified switch was bad with ohmmeter. Removed and replaced infinite switch. Removed and replaced board (simmer control) from back side of range. Need to reuse standoffs when replacing board. Used wiring diagram to verify correct installation of board and switch. Replaced cover. Everything is working fine since.

This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.

Pulled oven away from wall and unplugged. Removed back panel with nut driver. Took a picture of wiring on bad clock/timer. Removed wiring and installed new one.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

My problem with the door was a bit serious because not only would I lose heat from the top of the door, but could not use the convection oven unless the door closed tightly.

However, the repair could not have gone easier. The instructions were very simple and totally accurate. I would suggest that anyone doing this job with a door that has full glass across the front should have a helper neaby. The door is quite heavy.

This probably the easiest repair job I have ever done, and I have done many.

removed old terminal block . cut wires and spliced new terminal block and insulated with shrink wrap. Very eazy

Removed the door and the inner panel of the door and replaced the hinges. Replaced the screws and put the oven door back on. It closes tight now just like new. I have now ordered the replacement cap so my oven looks like new again.

I only have one suggestion to make the installation easier. If the manufacturer would prethread the holes in the new parts, it would save time from having to prethread the holes with the screws, prior to installing them.

removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element

After 15 minutes of frustration and back breaking I removed the oven door and had much better access to the panel, from there on it was all down hill.

Sensor very accessible. Pull off the back panel, disconect the sensor and slide out from back of oven. The original plug was cut off the sensor, as well as the new one to get the proper connector type on the new sensor. Soldered and heat shrink, and presto we had our new sensor ready for install. Install was about 5 minutes which included putting the back panel on the range. Pretty easy and works like new. Total time for project was about 20 minutes.

Easy just unscrewed the handle and changes it.
Same for the hinge receptacles.

Thanks to the ease of PartSelect.com web site and the fast shipping they provide. I was able to get my oven-range back into like new shape with in two days. Thanks for a super service.

First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.