79096542600 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Took the back off and replaced the switch for that burner. Got alittle nervous because the switch did not look the same and the connectors were labeled differently, but it worked. Lost the red light button some how during the repair so when I turned the stove on sparks came out the back because the light connector was loose so I did have to order another one of those.

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

Unscrewed the old element (2) screws, then unscrewed the (2) brackets holding the element up, pulled the element out of the back wall of the oven unhooked the (2) electrical wires and left them hanging. Installation is in the exact reverse order.

Pulled oven from counter space unplugged unit unscrewed 9 - 1/4" tech screws then one more 1/4" tech screw that holds the sensor.Inserted the new element cut the two wire because it was a different connection stripped the wires and did the same to the old element but used the old plug.Connected the plug,plugged the over back in slid the unit back and turned out on for a test.All is well,thank you!

Removed broken element, four screws. Element ends were attached to the oven via wire clips. Removed those too. Placed clips on the ends of the new element and remounted to the top of the oven enclosure with the fours screens. Took twenty to twenty five minutes. We had Tbones a little while later. Saved over 125.00 for repairman.

Followed video instructions on your web site.Removing one wire at a time as suggested simplified installation.Somehow i lost burner lens indicator.Ordered it from your website cost $3.84 plus shipping recieved in one day. GREAT SERVICE

Pulled out range, unplugged power used nut driver to remove back and removed oven probe. Had to change end and reinstalled in reverse order.

Turned off electric at the main box. Removed glass top. Used a razor knife to pry the connections loose so that the new connections could be slid in. Problem was that the element ordered looked entirely different then the original one. Even the hookup was different. But once the connections were made, the ceramic top placed on top, and the electric restored everything seemed okay. The warmer works and when it heats up the warning light turns on. When the warmer cools the warning light goes off as it should.

Confirm the problem and check electrical diagram to see if there was any other circuit in the syatem that could cause the burner to stay on , remove back cover and inspect switch contacts, found them burnt , look up parts for the model number and replace it.

I am an electrician so I had no problem identifying wire and connecting them properly. However there were no instructions provided with the part and the configuration of the new switch was different than the the old one. I doubt if a DIY individual would have been capable of handling this task. Also there were no safety warning with respect to electrical repairs, which is a must today.

To find problem. I turn the power off to range. Removed top back panel. Removed switch and found there was a black spot on white covering of switch. So I order a switch. When it came I turn power off to range. Removed the top panel on back of range. Removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. Once all wires were on new switch. I removed old switch and installed new one. I then reinstalled the top back panel and turned the power back on. It is really easy to do. If you are not confident enough. Take a picture of the back of range before removing the panel. Then take a picture of the wires before you remove them.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.