79096018502 Kenmore Range - Instructions

This is a slide in oven fully contained not in a wall, or wood enclosure. I slid the unit out away from the wall unplugged the power cord, used the nut driver to remove a dozen screws, not all of them, you dont need to pull the top back plate off just unscrew the bottom 3-4 screws on the top plate to release the lower back cover plate and you see the probe wire and the insertion point/hole. I actually did not even need to pull the full back plate off but it makes the handling of all the tools and stripping easier. I wish they had just left the plug off of the new probe and had left the 2 loose ends of the 2 wires that had to be spliced, it would have saved 15 minutes just with that part. If you dont have a real splicer tool ya gotta be careful to not cut the wires themselves if you use a sharp knife. Just cut the new probe plug off and splice on the old plug from the bad sensor which obviously you have cut and strip as well as I did and then it fits nicely back together like it was ment to be. I put elect tape on the 2 splices, you could use small wire nuts or whatever you desire, but turn the exposed splices back away from each other and tape them to the insulated wire so no exposed wire is touching any metal then I wrapped the completed taped splices with about a 4x5 piece of aluminum foil to help deflect the residual heat coming from the oven when it is on. put the probe through the hole and placed the metal retainer back in place and re- mounted the back panel plate,cover, that was it problem solved. This entire problem was caused originally in this relatively new oven because people who have been using the oven were sitting heavy pots and pans on the oven door and the hinges were sprung. The door would not stay shut during cooking. I dont know how long this had been going on before I discovered the issue. Once I replaced the hinges ( parts select ) the uneven, wrong temp, extended cooking problem jumped up. I am certain it was related to the open door not shutting for several months. They were using a bungie cord to pull the door closed and not completely. At this point I feel very comfortable with using parts select for all my appliance parts and advice. The folks here at my facility think I am an Einstien but when you have parts select working with you in the background you can't go wrong. I asked a hundred questions and learned alot and saved the facility at least 400 dollars by doing it myself. Thanks to my new work buddy PARTS SELECT. I was really a bit apprehensive about the doors hinges they looked dangerous and might have been but the tech I spoke with at P.S. walked me through it on the phone and I read the blogs which are really helpfull SORRY THIS ONE IS SO LONG.

The video was a great help. I could have replaced the switch without watching it, but it gave me confidence that I was doing it right. Everything went just like he said it would. Burner seems to work better now and no more scary noises.

Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked

I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.

I disconnected the power cord,took the top back plate off,the switch knob on the switch I was to change,the two screws holding it.pull the old switch out,place the new one in the holder,replaced the two screws that holds the switch and took the wires off the old switch one at a time and placed them on the new one in order on new switch.replaced the back cover and plugged power cord back in.turned range on,it was good. r taite,

pull back panel, 2 screws & one wire at a time.....And don't forget to KILL POWER!!!!super easy works great now and the wife loves it.

Unplug the range, pull the knob off the front. Remove the screws from the cover plate behind the switch and remove the cover plate. Carefully pull one wire at a time off of the old switch noting the markings: "L1," "L2," "H1," etc., as the wire position may be different on the new switch. Put each wire onto the new switch as they are removed from the old one. Let the new switch hang from the wires while removing the 2 Phillips head screws from the front of the old switch and remove the switch. Hold the new one in place, start both screws, & then tighten them. Push the knob on the new switch. Plug the range in and try it. If everything works, install the rear panel and screws. I think that it took me longer to type this than it did to actually do the job.

Unplugged the main cord to the socket in behind range. Took back panel off. Unscrewed switch from its position on face of range. Switch is not a look alike switch to original, so had to pay attention to the labeling on both switches as to their identity. Removed one line at a time from old switch and placed on new switch. Rechecked positions of the wires and made sure there was no binding of the wire positions when installed. Mounted switch to same position previous switch was removed. Reinstalled back panel, plugged in range and tested switch. Very easy repair as long as you can see the labeling on back of switches. I used a light having a strap that is positioned on my head for best lighting possible for one person repair.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.