79090832603 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- daniel from fargo, ND
- Parts Used:
- 316468600
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replacing the Oven Door Vent Trim
1. Remove the old Trim by opening the door and unscrewing the two top screws holding the trim and glass to the door. 2. Lift the trim piece off of the glass, being careful as the glass will be a bit loose, and unscrew the handle from the trim piece, discard those two screws. 3. Place the new trim piece on the glass so that it fits snugly. 4. Place the screws back through the holes on the inside of the door, through the new trim piece and attach them to the handle. 5. Tighten down snugly and close door. You are done!
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- Customer:
- Arnold from Carlsbad, CA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
element would not heat.
Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.
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- Customer:
- John from Hiawassee, GA
- Parts Used:
- 316233903
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set
wrong temp when baking.
removed back. discovered wrong connector on probe. Cut the connectors off and spliced with small butt connector. Took me longer to find the tools and connector than to do the repair. The wires are very small and require a very small butt connector. Tips by the sales rep and previous customer were helpful. Great service. Will try PartSelect for Cub Cadet and Yamaha OB parts. Thanks. John
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Oven insulation ruined by rodent urine; horrible smell every time oven used
My brother is a licensed electrician, so the job was relatively easy for him. The pieces of insulation were pre-cut to fit, so there was no trimming involved. He tilted the oven over on its back to replace the piece of insulation under the oven. Removed the metal panel between the storage drawer and oven bottom, removed the soiled insulation and wiped everything down with vinegar. Placed the new insulation and reinstalled the metal panel and drawer. Removed the oven/range top and again removed the soiled insulation, wiped everything down and installed the new insulation (this piece of insulation was the wrap around one that goes under the range top - across the top of the oven and down both sides). Replaced the oven top, then did the back panel - this one was the most time consuming, due to the need to disconnect some of the wiring and sensors, as well as having to loosen the panel where the control knobs are located in order to remove the inner panel to get to the insulation. The insulation was precut to fit around the oven light bulb, so just had to make sure we installed it right side up :). Have used the oven several times since and no more smell!!
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- Customer:
- timothy from Kingsland, GA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner not working
Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Moorestown, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Right Rear burner stopped working
I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.
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