79046264500 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Turned off breaker to range then removed all element control knobs. Unscrewed retaining collars I suppose is a good word removed panel. Then removed bad switch installed removed one wire at a time and placed on new switch in proper places. Reassembled in reverse order turned breaker back on worked perfect.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

Turn off breaker to the oven. Removed four knows by pulling them up and out. Using either a large flat blade screwdriver or adjustable wrench (depending upon stove top model) remove threaded style holders at each burner switch control to remove the glass clock control top panel. Remove glass panel and note ldgasket position. Place glass panel on top of stove top on a cloth towel to prevent scratches. Remove 8 screws and remove/lift up burner control assembly. Invert and place on its side to gain access to broken contol switch. Took a picture of wiring and close up off switch to help remember where each wire plugs into switch. Remove 2 Phillips screws from the old switch and remove from panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver gently remove one wire at a time and using knob to orientate the off position of the new switch. Remove each wire one at a time and install on the new switch. Compare numbers on both the old and new switch to assist where each wire goes. The numbers are beside each terminal and using a flashlight and magnifying glass will help making the job easier. DO NOT mix the wires up. Use the 2 longer screws and threaded bracket supplied fasten the new switch to the glass panel. Reinstall the glass panel using the screws removed and thread on clips at each switch and tighten using a large flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to route the wiring to not pinch the wires and install the gasket along the front edge which fills the gap along the burner top and side for a tight seal keeping water and food particles out. The infinite control switch has letters such as H1, H2 etc as the switch fits several models with different wiring diagrams and colours so it's impt to note this when transferring the old wires to the new switch. Also the gasket along the top glass edge ensure to note exactly how it is placed to reinstall to be exact when you reassemble. Replace the 4 control knobs by pushing them on after aligning to fit as they were removed. New switch should be positioned the same as the others with off at the top and a notable click. Be sure to note this when transferring wires from the old to new switch. Turn breaker on. Note: If you have minimal skills this should be left to someone who is an electrician or has repair experience in this field.

searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...

thanks partselect..

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Generally straight forward repair with the most difficulty coming from the screws holding the element in place being rusted. Took some wd40 and some snub-nosed pliers to get them out. The wire connections on the back of the element are pretty self explanatory. Lightbulb was an easy change though the bulb connection had also rusted a bit and required some pliers to remove.

Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes, worked perfect, thanks

Just pulled the old cook top burner out and put the new one in .it took about 1 1/2 minutes

2 screws disconnected old one and pulled out the new one in put in opposite way. The representative was so helpful, part came fast. thank you

Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes
OEM parts plug in same, works great

Googled the problem and found Oven Temperature Sensor and Main Terminal Block to be the most likely problems. Turned out to be neither. No parts were needed. Oven has a thermal overload switch on the rear upper left. Thermal overload needed re-set. To do so you have to remove the oven, remove the back and press the red button on thermal overload. Biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the oven. Even with the installation manual it was not easy to fgure out. The instructions are misleading. You need a special tool. I used two hacksaw blades as a substitute, and slid them in to release the clips. Once you figure out how to get the oven out the rest is simple.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.

Drawings on web site somewhat hard to read, resulting in more
disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the
threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees
up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down
the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to replace the control unit by
swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when
re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty
easily.