79090830600 Kenmore Range - Instructions

pull back panel, 2 screws & one wire at a time.....And don't forget to KILL POWER!!!!super easy works great now and the wife loves it.

I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.

My brother is a licensed electrician, so the job was relatively easy for him. The pieces of insulation were pre-cut to fit, so there was no trimming involved. He tilted the oven over on its back to replace the piece of insulation under the oven. Removed the metal panel between the storage drawer and oven bottom, removed the soiled insulation and wiped everything down with vinegar. Placed the new insulation and reinstalled the metal panel and drawer. Removed the oven/range top and again removed the soiled insulation, wiped everything down and installed the new insulation (this piece of insulation was the wrap around one that goes under the range top - across the top of the oven and down both sides). Replaced the oven top, then did the back panel - this one was the most time consuming, due to the need to disconnect some of the wiring and sensors, as well as having to loosen the panel where the control knobs are located in order to remove the inner panel to get to the insulation. The insulation was precut to fit around the oven light bulb, so just had to make sure we installed it right side up :). Have used the oven several times since and no more smell!!

removed back. discovered wrong connector on probe. Cut the connectors off and spliced with small butt connector. Took me longer to find the tools and connector than to do the repair. The wires are very small and require a very small butt connector. Tips by the sales rep and previous customer were helpful. Great service. Will try PartSelect for Cub Cadet and Yamaha OB parts. Thanks. John

Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

I am an electrician so I had no problem identifying wire and connecting them properly. However there were no instructions provided with the part and the configuration of the new switch was different than the the old one. I doubt if a DIY individual would have been capable of handling this task. Also there were no safety warning with respect to electrical repairs, which is a must today.

Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.

Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked

To find problem. I turn the power off to range. Removed top back panel. Removed switch and found there was a black spot on white covering of switch. So I order a switch. When it came I turn power off to range. Removed the top panel on back of range. Removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. Once all wires were on new switch. I removed old switch and installed new one. I then reinstalled the top back panel and turned the power back on. It is really easy to do. If you are not confident enough. Take a picture of the back of range before removing the panel. Then take a picture of the wires before you remove them.