7909641240F Kenmore Range - Instructions

replaced it

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

Easy as 1-2-3

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

I followed directions for replacement of the glass from the web. Replacement was simple and easy.

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.

Large burner would cycle on and off per temp setting a few times. Then it would stick on high. Read other problems people had with the burner switch, which helped to determine the problem. Instillation per video was pretty straight forward; but the issue I ran into was when pulling off the wires from old switch, there was a short wire which connected to the indicator light. The abrupt release yanked the wire which caused the lens indicator to snap. So, when you are repairing the switch, be aware if there is enough slack in the wires to prevent that issue

I unplugged the stove. Then I lifted up the top of the stove to expose the burners. I unscrewed the necessary screws and plugs that attached the old burner to the stove. Then I simply put the new one back in it's place. The stove was one of those flat burner stoves, and I was a little concerned that I would be able to do it. The repair man wanted to charge me $150.00 for labor.