79095758990 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the four screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out and disconnected the two wire. Installation was pretty much the reverse of the removal except, when I went to put the two screws holding the element to the top of the oven I discovered the holes were rusted out. I looked for inserts to put in the holes but every time I tried different inserts the holes got bigger. I finally realized the oven is just sheet metal so I moved the bracket about an inch drilled new holes and used self-tapping screws.

Removed the face ot the drawer, revealing the screws. Took off the remaining screw holding only a piece of the old handle. Replaced with the new handle and replaced the face.

Easy

Removed the defective part. Install the new part, insert the connectors. Now its working

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Haven’t got to repair it yet. For the part has not arrived yet and I have no way to track it. For I’ve never received a tracking number

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.

Take handle off, then back cover. Of course unplug power. Switch wasn't built exactly like the original but all you have to do is connect each wire to the same letter, number code as on the old one . Works like brand new!

Pull range away from the wall. Unplug range. Remove back plate covering the switches. Remove defective switch. Use bent paper clip to press center of terminal connectors and disconnect terminals. Reconnect each terminal of new switch as you go to avoid confusing terminals and connectors. Re-attach switch. Plug in range and test elements. Clean range area. Push range back into place, being sure to engage the anti-tip safety device.

First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.

Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.

Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

This product was super easy to apply. The part came in perfect condition and when I discovered 2 of the screws had fallen into the actual door (causing the door to apply pressure unevenly to the handle when pulled) fixing it was a snap.

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.