62946776790 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed 2 phillips screws, unplugged 2 wires, threw away old element. Installation of the new element was just as easy but in reverse order. Piece of cake!

Took two screws out unplugged the element and plugged the new one in and replaced the screws and turned the breaker back on. Works great...Piece of cake..jk

Turned off power, removed 2 screws, un-hooked the connections, them put in the new element in reverse order.

I received the new element on the third day, followed simple directions, and voila! I'm baking again.
First I unplugged the stove. Important!. Then with a phillips head screwdriver I removed the two screws at the back of the oven. The transition from busted to new was easy because there was a slide-in connection to the wires, not screws. The best advice was sticking duct tape on the wires so they wouldn't go back into the inner sanctum before I was able to attach the new element. Hey, I'm a 72-year-old grandma, and it was easy!

First I cut the power to the stove. Then I unscrewed the two screws. Pulled the element out a few inches. I had to use pliers to disconnect it from its wires. It was a very tight fit. Then I reconnected the new element. Cut the power back and and fired her up. Boy did she burn like fire.

Removed the two screws that held the element in place and then pulled off the element from the connectors. Slipped the new connectors on. Tested the oven - Baked some blackberry cobbler!

Turned off all power to range.
Removed two Philip head screws
Gentle pulled unit Element forward
Removed two push on connectors
(Do not let wires fall back into oven holes)

Reversed the process.

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Removed two screws from back of oven ,pulled apart old coil from wires, inserted new coil into the small metal pieces, pushed back and screws replaced. Really easy , anyone can do. Oh, I am 70 years old so probably people younger could do more quickly.

Removed the old element by removing 2 screws and disconnecting two solderless connectors. One solderless connector was melted in two. I had to remove the rear panel and cut the old connector off and crimped on a new solderless connector. The time required was lengthened due to trip to the hardware store to get a new connector. While I was fixing the oven element my wife replaced the oven light.

Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.

Ordered element and recieved in two days(yea). Removed back cover from unit. Removed two wire slide on wire clips. Then went inside oven cavity and removed two screws holding element intact. The element slid out. Installed element, re-installed two screws to hold element intact. Attached wire clips back on to element, re-attached back cover. Plugged unit back in and it worked perfectly. Eazy-peezy lemon squeezy.

John
Johnny on the Spot Home Repairs
Fishers, Indiana 317-997-3600