62946965 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

Lifter grill and replaced filter. It fit perfectly.

Wife installed them, they just snap into place on the Rock Grate.

took it out and dropped in the new filter. Total time about 2 minutes

Shut off breaker, removed the top by unscrewing the retaining screws and removing all knobs and grommets. Removed control from top panel by unscrewing, removed 5 wires and placed on new control. I then remounted the control, placed the top in its well, fastened. Replaced the retaining screws in the hold down strip and replaced grommets and knobs. Returned power to panel by turning the breaker on and tested. Used later that evening to grill 2 panini.

James is an electrician so he istalled the part himself

The video you provided was excellent! Turned the circuit breaker off. Removed four screws, pulled out control panel, took a picture of the wiring to be safe. Disconnected the wires from the damaged control and removed it (two screws removed). Mounted the new control, connected the wiring, replaced the control panel and the four screws. Circuit breaker back on, turn burner on. That's it. Thanks for the video!

Removed back of stove - 4 screws on top, 3 underneath. Unplugged wires from element. Removed element - 2 screws in front and 2 in the back. Installed new element, plugged wires back in, reinstalled back panel.

Your site helped me determine the problem. You included a video of how to do the repair. The replacement of the parts went just as expected. The parts came quickly and were the correct parts. I could not have asked for a better experience. (I replaced two switches because the knob was loose on the othe one).. Thanks.

I removed the cover plate for the burner switches and verified the wiring on the other switches. I had removed the bad switch a few years ago and I needed to make sure that the wiring was correct. I did not keep the original screws that hold the switch in place, because I destroyed them when I first removed the old switch. The were corroded from years of cleaning solution. I made new screws from longer wall socket screws by shortening them with a hacksaw. The entire process took about 30 minutes to do, and the results were good. The new switch is smoother than the others, but functions exactly the same.

First turn off the power to the stove/oven. Next I removed the 4 screws located on the bottom surface of the control panel. You need to open the oven door to see/access them. The control panel can then be removed by rotating the bottom outward which allows the flange on the top to disengage. Next remove the two screws that hold the switch to the control panel. Note which wire goes to which spade connector. A quick photo can help. Undo the wires. Remove the old switch. Reinstall the wires. Mount the new switch to the control panel. Mount the control panel back into the stove/oven. Turn on the power and test. The burner now works as new!

We took the door off, you have to be careful of the hinges popping back. We put small screwdrivers on each side and held the hinges out, this made the door easy to just stand up and slide back on the hinges. The glass replacement was simple just a few screws. We spent $127.00 on the part and shipping and a new wall oven would have cost us $1500.00. Thanks for making this part available.

My 31 yr. old grandson very carefully took the whole door apart. Took out the broken window and put the new one back in. He was very careful to put every screw back in the original hole. It took him exactly one hour.

The repair was straight forward. Remove about a million screws and several layers. The only challenge was loosening some baked on screws in the innermost layer. Repair would have been less than an hour if not for those screws. Key advice is to pay attention to the order that each layer went back on. My oven/stove is about 25 years old, but works great. The part was backordered at a local appliance part store from May to ???. I ordered it at PartSelect and it was also backordered for a couple of months. I got it delivered to my home from PartSelect before it ever came in from the local store.