66572134301 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

oven would not light but broiler and range top would. removed oven racks. removed 2 finger tight screws on oven pan floor and pulled up oven floor. also removed storage drawer under oven- also 2 screws. now your oven should look like the inside of your gas grill. removed 2 more screws on burner plate and removed plate. unplugged igniter and 2 screws holding igniter. replaced igniter and put together in reverse order. oven now works perfectly

First make sure it is the gas valve not the ignitor. If the clicking sound still happens then the ignitor is fine, no clicking means ignitor may be broke and try to fix that first because it is cheaper. For us I knew it was the valve because the ignitor still clicked and the broil and top elements still worked. After the part arrived I turned off the gas and pulled the power to the oven. Disassembled all the components taking pictures along the way to remember what it looked like to go back together. Installed the new valve and use yellow gas tephlon tape at the seals. Put components back in reverse order. Run the top elements first to get gas in all the gas lines and remove the air. At this point the oven bakes again.

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.

Looks better than the old one wes and so easy to do. Thanks.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Using 4 strips of duct tape was useful,in holding the glass to the door.

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

The replacement proceeds similarly as for electric range switch replacements described here, only this model is a gas range. The top panel does not lift up because of the feeds to the gas burners. It is possible, using a thin blade, to depress the spring fingers holding the switch in the oven panel, or else to remove it destructively. Be careful not to pull the old switch out too far, or else the wires will pull off the switch connectors and fall inside the oven-side panel cavity. This happened to me. The wires are very short. Another 1/2 inch of wire would have made all the difference. If this happens you have to fish out the loose wire. I gave up on this and took off the back panel (about 8 screws) and then loosened the bottom and sides of the side panel. This allowed me to retrieve the short wire and connect it to the back of the switch while pushing the switch into its mounting hole. Reattach the side panel, the back panel, and slide the stove back into place, and you should be good to go.

Lifted the top disconnected the old valve and replaced with a new one.I believe the valve should have been shipped with two gaskets,. One for the bottom and another for the top. I reused the old one on the top with no problem but would have preferred a new one.

The first thing you need to do is remove the racks from your oven.

Then look around at the back of your oven for the screws that hold the bottom pan down.

Remove those screws and remove the pan. Some need to slide back and then come up others will just pull up.

Remove the heat shield that is over the burner.

Remove the bottom drawer of your oven.

Now you should be able to see the igniter that sits on an angle by the burner tubes with a couple of wires coming out of it.

Removing the screws that hold the igniter is probably the most difficult part with some ovens. Sometimes it is easier to remove the whole bracket that holds the igniter and then remove and replace the igniter out of the oven.

The wires for the igniter will go to a Molex plug. Follow the wires and undo the plug. On many units it will be below the oven in the drawer opening at the top back. You will need to lay flat on the floor and reach back in to do this.

Once you have the old igniter out then you can carefully install the new one.

Check to make sure that you can feed the Molex plug and wires down through to the bottom before fastening the igniter.

Once the igniter is secured and the plug is connected, you can then replace the other parts in the reverse order that they came out.

Replaced bake igniter only as recommended by others, no need to buy the whole unit. The bottom screw is difficult to access, use a 1/4 inch socket set with 8 mm socket. Advice to remove bottom storage drawer to make sure wire is connected to the igniter. So far it works fine.