79045714100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Gasket has pins that line up with tiny holes around the perimeter of door. Just pull the old gasket off, and snap new one ( with pins) in . Used the butter knife to push ends of gasket in hole at bottom of door. Took about 2 minutes to complete and looks AWESOME! simple. simple, simple! This company ships immediately and the product is described properly. I would buy from this company again!

1. Moved stove from against the wall. 2. Unplugged the power supply. 3. Removed the electrical pannel cover. 4. Disconnected the quick connect probe plug. 5. Opened the oven and removed the probe. 6. Installed the new probe. 7. Connected the quick connect plug. 8. Reattached the electrical panel cover. 9. Plugged in the electrical supply. 10. Moved the stove back into its original position. ****Note**** THIS IS THE SECOND TIME I REPLACED THE PROBE. THE FIRST REPLACEMENT LASTED ONLY 5 MONTHS!!!!

First. shut off the power!!! Remove the two screws holding the coil. Next- slightly pull remaining wire to access the plugs. Unplug the wires, remove old coil, replace and plug in the new... Replace two screws.... Turn power on and....... Start cooking! EASY!

Really easy to replace handle. However, because the new handle does not have the metal inserts to receive the attaching screws (!appearently a bit cheaper to make!), I am concerned that it will not last as long. I could find no reference to new attaching screws so used the old ones...hope it works!

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

used two flat bladed screw drivers to get under edge of switch.. pried one side up and unit popped loose... removed electric connection (three prong recep) and plugged in new switch ..pushed into hole and was done... approximately 3 minutes..

After trying to unscrew a plate on the side, I found that would NOT work at all, the side panel of the stove was behind it. I found a tab that cut-out on 3 sides just above the location of the recepticle, and simply bent that tab out, pulled out the old recepticle, slid in the new recipticle, and put in the screws and then bent back the tab. It was sooo easy once I found that. I repeated in on the other side.

Square drive screws used throughout the oven since its manufactured in Canada. Shut power down to the range. Element fastener plate removed and 2 electrical terminals loosened. Used a pair of hemostats to hold on to the wires so as not to lose them to the interior back of the oven which was loaded with insulation. Connected the 2 wires to the new element, screwed the element fastening plate with element back to the back of the oven wall. Turned power back on and voila, I was back in business.

Removed 2 screws holding old temperature sensor inside the oven and gently pulled out the wire till the connector came through the hole. Disconnected old probe and attached new one. Fished the wire back in the hole and replaced the two screws. Then followed the operating instructions for calibrating the oven. Ended up setting it +5 degrees. So far, works great.

Moved the stove away from the wall, unhooked the electric cord and the gas pipe. In the oven, undid the two screws holding the probe. Removed two screws and removed the electrical cover panel from the stove back, disconnected the quick connect to the probe and pulled the probe from the oven. Reversding the proceedures, put the new probe into the oven, hooked up the quick connect and replaced the electrical panel cover. From the front, reinstalled the probe with the two screws, reconnected the gas and the power cord and put the stove back into position. It works just fine now!

It was easy once I got screws that work.Old screws and handle had machine screws that held handle on.Order screws with handle so you can install immediately...

unscrewed old and screwed in new

Started with three screws on outer edge of door, which separated inner and outer door parts exposing the first set of screws on first piece of glass. There are four panes including inner and outer with two between. Keep track of the screws, be careful removing and replacing glass panes (i put mat down to rest glass on)and with nothing more than a screwdriver and windex to remove fingerprints etc from replaced glass, it was a breeze. Good luck! - FK, Bahamas

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back