91193481990 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Having done this replacement before, it was very easy. My advice to anyone having a similar case is to approach the connections from the back of the stove by removing the center back panel for easy access to the connection terminals.

Loosened screw on upper left on the inside of the door,this enabled me to see exactly where to place the glass front, then slid the glass behind the door handle, then inserted into the bottom slot, making sure that the glass was secure. Did all of this after applying the insulation pad. Door looked like new!!!

This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the control and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!

Read the instructions on how to remove the door, found in the owners manual. Once you release the hinge lock latches, the door can be lifted off of the hinge arms.

It is fairly heavy and bulky. I spread a large towel on the kitchen table and placed the door, front side down on the towel.

Remove the 3 nut screws at the bottom of the door and then lift the inner door assembly up about 3" and hold it up temporarily with a medium sized plastic food storage container. This will allow room to access the 4 nut screws (2 on each side) that secure the trim to the door.

The old trim was somewhat difficult to remove because of years of rust and other build up where the front door glass goes behind the trim. Be careful not to damage the glass. I used a putty knife.

The edge of the glass will be soiled so I used a mild abrasive cleaner to remove the rust and grime, and then used a window cleaning spray to clean the glass.

The new piece had to be "fitted" slightly to match the existing screw nut holes but it goes together quickly.

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

Removed old racks and replaced with new racks.

I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.

Pulled burner out of socket and pushed new burner into socket. Took less than a minute.

Took out the 2 screws,Pulled out the stove
Took the back off ,took the wires out of the little place where they fit in,Removed the old element.
Put the new one in Fitted the little thing which looked like a alumium flat piece back where we took the old one out.Put the back back on cut it on wheepe In business.Also the new element came here faster than I thought it would .I,m a 71 yearold grandmother.Pretty simple.

I first pulled the stove away from the wall to unplug and look from the rear. Look at the wiring from the back (you may have to remove 2 screws and the plate that covers the wiring) and take a picture of it if you can with your smart phone - this way when you go to put it back you have a reference. I then removed the oven racks and the 2 little bolts holding the element in place. Wiggle it toward you slowly so the wires don't pull off. It's easier if you use needle nose pliers to get the fittings off, if its hard wiggle the fitting it will come off. I put the connections on the new element and squeezed them tight not to move. I did put a small piece of electrical tape on the connection ends for my piece of mind. Screw it back in and, plug it in and turn on. If the element starts to glow your done, put the cover back on over the wires and slide it back in place. If your kind of handy you can do it.

Watched youtube video. Very easy to replace

Unplug stove.
Remove rear panel of stove with a nut driver or socket. Remove knob from switch and use small screwdriver to remove screws on front panel switch. Remove and replace each wire contact one at a time to ensure correct wiring configuration. Replace screws on front panel to secure switch. Plug stove in and check that it works properly. Replace rear panel and move stove back in place.

0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For each unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.

Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.

I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!