9116018910 Kenmore Range - Instructions

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I read the "easy to repair" story after I ordered my part and I felt like I coud do this on my own. (Female not much experience in repairs) I shut off circuit breaker...proceeded to take out element...could not get it to easiler come off...so I made the mistake of cutting the wire because it looked like that's what I needed to do. WORD TO THE WISE...there are clamps that actually pull off the element..just need to pull a little. So my "easy" project was made more difficult because I didn't know this up front. Otherwise it would have been a breeze. I had to go to the hardware store and but new clamps and attach to the cut wire. Good news is my oven is now working and Parts.com was fast, cheaper than the GE parts place and great service.

pulled stove out from wall about a foot ans disconnected the electricity cord. removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled it out a bout 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. attached the new element & pushed it in place and tighrened the 2 screws. hooked up the electric power, moved stove back in place & it was done!

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!

As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.

The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.

Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.

I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.

Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.

Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.

A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.

Turned power off. Removed two screws holding the element. Pulled element out 3 inches, disconnected the two wires, pulled out old element, connected wires of new element, replaced screws. Turned power back on. Eureka!! the oven heats again. :-)

Took out the hexagon screws, used pliers to pull the connecting ends apart, slid in the new element in to the connecting slots, reattached to screws, turned on the oven to see if it would heat up and it did. It was really easy. I had waited for a week to get the part from my local Sears parts house. You sent it out and I had it in 3 days. They still don't have the part. Thanks so much.

Cut power to oven from breaker box. Remove two retaining screws using a nutdriver at rear of oven. Slowly pull Bake Element from rear of range exposing connector clips. Disconnect at clips from oven wiring. Connect new Baking Element to wiring connectors. Push new baking element into rear of oven. Reconnect baking element using original screws with nutdriver at rear of oven. Turn on power to oven from breaker box. Job complete in 10-15 mins.

After removing the screws holding the element in I disconnected the wires and attached alligator clips to the wires to keep them from pulling back inside the holes. I would have had to pull the stove out and removed some covers if they disappeared through the holes. After getting the part number off of the old element, I ordered a new element from Partselect.com and received the new one in less the a week. Reinstalling the new element took about 5 minutes.

Removed oven shelves (30 seconds). Removed 2 screws holding broken element to oven (2 minutes). Pulled broken element assembly out & removed 2 wires attached to element (1 minute). Connected wires to new element (just push them into place) and mounted new element with the 2 screws (1 1/2 minutes). Turned on oven element to test & since I was so tired from all of this 5-minute activity, I rested.

Al S.

After reading other stories, I knew enough to slide the lower drawer out and take off the spring. 30 second job. I did not realize that range doors slide vertically off the hinge, did that in about 2 mins. Put the new hinge on in 2 mins (3 Screws). Slid the door back on and done. Works like a champ. My wife has her eye on new stainless appliances. Sadly, she'll have to wait a while longer.

First I switched the fuse to the oven had no power and then I removed the old element and wiped down the inside with a damp towel.
I then attached the new element and then used the screws to attach the element firmly into place.
I then restored power by switching the fuse back and then burned the element to remove and chemicals and then done

I removed the two screws with a nut driver, pulled the element out far enough to expose the connection point and disconnected the electrical clips. Upon receipt of the new element I did those things in reverse order and it worked great.

This repair was idiot-proof. Removed 2 screws, unplugged the old part, plugged in the new one, and replaced the 2 screws.
Literally a 2 minute repair!!

Piece of cake. 2 screws and a flashlight. I needed needle nose pliers to insert the "plugs" into the "sockets."