1197498311 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed the two screws, took out the old one and replaced the new one. It was very easy and the oven works great now. Thanks.

took the old igniter out and swapped the connectors onto the new one. Kept the connectors close to the connector end to prevent them from being to close to the ovens heat.

Removed 2 screws to oven bottom
Remove one nut that holds gas rail deflector
Removed 2 screws that held Igniterto the fuel rail
Cut 2 wires to the Igniter
attached 2 wires from new Igniter using ceramic wire nuts (Suplied with new part)
Install same as removal

I just sent in a generic description of my problem and a couple of ideas on what it might be. Within 2 days an online repair person answered me back with the solution. I ordered the part and 2 days later I was back in business and baking cookies.

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. Turn off gas and unplug oven. Removed the broiler drawer, cut wires, unscrewed oven igniter (using a small/medium adjustable wrench), connected wires, fastened new igniter to bracket, spliced wire, twisted together, plugged oven back in, turned gas on, turned on oven after a few minutes...worked great.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

After removing heat shield, removed heating element (make sure you have the right bit, I stripped one of the screws). Cut wires , making sure to mark them. Reconnected and it worked like new! Saved a bunch of money,thank you!

removed bottom plate in oven removed three screws and cut two wires.

Unplugged stove, removed floor of oven, removed two screws holding igniter, cut wires to igniter, installed new igniter, cut and stripped wires on new igniter and leads, connected new ingiter with supplied ceramic wire nuts, tested (worked perfectly!), then replaced oven floor.

It was a snap!

I first removed the 2 screws that held the oven floor in place. Once removed, I remove the cover plate that covered the ignitor.

In order to get to the ignitor wires, I had to remove the drawer. Once the drawer was removed, I marked which wire went to which spot on the ignitor, then cut the wires. I then removed the old ignitor by removing 2 screws. I then attached the new ignitor with the 2 screws and attached the wires using the enclose wire nuts.

The complete process was very easy, taking less than half an hour. The part with shipping was just over $50. If I paid someone to fix my problem it would have cost at least $200. I'm sure galad I found this web site.

The oven igniter was working, the Sears repairman said by the phone the igniter was probley weak and not geting hot enough. Remove door ( 4 screws) Remove oven pan (4 Screws) remove burner sheld. remove lighter and cut wires. Install new. Remove storage drawer and splice new wires to the old at the back.

i followed some of the tips provided, and added a few of my own. unplug stove from electric outlet. open oven door, remove wire trays. remove the two flathead screws, holding down the oven pan, it should slide out easily. remove oven burner(looks like wings)only one nut holding it in place with 1/4"nutdriver. remove igniter, 2 nuts as well with 1/4" nutdriver. cut wires, leave a good length, and strip(2 wires). install new igniter, strip the 2 wires as well, trim to size, and with the two wire caps provided, make wire connections. tuck any excess length of wires away from igniter. re-install all parts the were orginally removed. plug oven back into outlet. turn on oven, and presto, oven worked good as new. saved a couple of hundred dollars doing the repair myself

I googled most of the problem I was having. When I would turn on the oven I would have the orange glow from the igniter but I would never get heat. I ordered the part off this website...it arrived the very next day!!! 7 months pregnant I fixed the problem!!! My oven works beautifuly!! Just in time for the holidays! I saved so so much money doing it myself. U to can do it, good luck!!