9117318710 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Unplugged the electrical.Removed the door, removed the oven racks and removed the bottom pan. Removed the wire nuts from the two wires. Removed the burner tube. Removed the Igniter. Installed in reverse order. It was very easy however it was the third igniter that I had to replace in this range so I was used to it.

1. Slide oven door off hinge arms and set aside
2. Slide out oven bottom drawer and set aside
3. Detach springs from perforations in stove rails then hinges and set aside
4. Loosen three screws in each hinge, remove and set aside.
5. Remove hinges, threading them out through openings
6. Thread new hinges into stove openings. Align hinge arms with hinge wheels.
7. Align and tighten three hinge screws in each hinge.
8. Re-attach springs to perforations in hinge, then stove rails
9. Slide oven drawer into stove and door into hinge arms

Called in and talked to someone and he look yup what he thought was correct but after i got them theywere wrong so i sent them back for a full refund minus 9.90 freight. I still need to figure out what i need for my 27 inch wall oven. Please help. Thanks

Lifted the door off the hinges, unhooked the spring from each hinge, unscrewed 3 Phillips head screws from the face plate of each hinge and removed the hinge assemblies . Hinges went in the way they came out; easy shmeasy. Took less than 15 minutes and the door is like new.

1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?

After tilting the oven door out and sliding it up to remove it, I slid the storage drawer our completely from the range. After removing the spring that held the hinge assembly under tension, I removed 3 phillips head screws that held the existing assembly in place and removed it. After verifying the part you sent was an exact match, I reinstalled the new part, fastened the screws, attached the tension spring, installed the storage drawer, and then slid the oven door back in place on the brackets, completing the repair.

I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.

I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!

- removed the oven unit from the wall
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.

Lifted door off the front of stove, real easy, but heavy, took out old hinge, and replaced with new hinge, I just looked where everything was before, I replaced with new, replaced door back on, and I was finished.

1. I have searched info on the internet and found that site.
2. Initially I could not figure out how to unscrew ingniter. After reading more post I have found out how to access nuts underneath.
3. After I have removed lower drawer and unscrewed metal cover and then inginter nuts.
4. I have got a part with two wires attached to the igniter and two porcelan insulator, so it was very easy to cut old wires and connect with an igniter wires in parallel

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Remove the front door-lifted off(no tools) removed the floor of the oven (2 standard nuts at the rear). nut driver to remove the igniter. Took longest to untwist and retwist wires & dropped screws. reassembled and tested...worked perfice. this is the 4th time I've used Parts Select and It's great....Thanks and keep up the good work!

Removed the bottom plate inside the stove by removing two back screws. The burner was exposed. roved a total of three screws on gas burner to remove the entire assembly. Removed two screws from the old igniter and then put new one on. Save the old connectors because they have unique connectors. Cut old wire and strip 3/8 inch of wire cover off. Using the supplied wire nuts. Caution use only supplied wire nuts because they are meant for heat. connect old wire to new wire of the new igniter. Reverse order of screws that you did for the job. That is it

This web site is awesome!!! their forum told me what part i needed, and they shipped it out, super fast, i couldn't hardly believe it! I tried using the Sears Parts web site for my "kenmore" oven and that was a joke, seriously! no more kenmore for me, thanks. It took this site to figure out that i really had a G.E. with a kenmore name on it.
I found out that even though the old ignitor glows well, it may not pull enough amps to open the gas valve.
First i disconnected the two wires on the gas safety valve that lead to the ignitor. These are accessed after taking the bottom drawer out. Then using a nut driver, i took out the two screws holding the bottom of the burner tube. Then inside the oven, i took out the racks and then the two screws in the back on the bottom. Then took out the bottom plate. I removed the one screw on the front of the burner tube, and removed the burner tube with the ignitor attached. I cut the wires off the old ignitor and attached them to the new ignitor with the supplied ceramic wire nuts. I attached the new ignitor to the burner tube and put everything back together. The bottom screws on the burner tube were very difficult for me to reach. Almost impossible to get both hands there to do the job.

Unplugged the oven. First i removed the 2 screws from the pan at the bottom of the oven and took the pan out. Next i took out the drawer underneath and took the screws out of the pans below to get to the ignitor. Unscrewed the ignitor and cut the wires below it to splice the new ignitor on. Spliced the two sets of wires and put the ceramic wire nuts on. Replaced the top and bottom pans and put the drawer back. plugged the oven back in and started the oven right up. Pretty easy.