9114618890 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

pulled stove out from wall about a foot ans disconnected the electricity cord. removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled it out a bout 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. attached the new element & pushed it in place and tighrened the 2 screws. hooked up the electric power, moved stove back in place & it was done!

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!

I read the "easy to repair" story after I ordered my part and I felt like I coud do this on my own. (Female not much experience in repairs) I shut off circuit breaker...proceeded to take out element...could not get it to easiler come off...so I made the mistake of cutting the wire because it looked like that's what I needed to do. WORD TO THE WISE...there are clamps that actually pull off the element..just need to pull a little. So my "easy" project was made more difficult because I didn't know this up front. Otherwise it would have been a breeze. I had to go to the hardware store and but new clamps and attach to the cut wire. Good news is my oven is now working and Parts.com was fast, cheaper than the GE parts place and great service.

As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.

The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.

Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.

I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.

Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.

Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.

A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.

Took out the hexagon screws, used pliers to pull the connecting ends apart, slid in the new element in to the connecting slots, reattached to screws, turned on the oven to see if it would heat up and it did. It was really easy. I had waited for a week to get the part from my local Sears parts house. You sent it out and I had it in 3 days. They still don't have the part. Thanks so much.

First I removed the oven door from the support hinges. Next I pulled the bottom pan drawer out to get to the tension spring. I released the tension from the hinge, unscrewed three screws that held the hinge in place. From there I replaced the hinge put all components back in place and did it all under 20 mins. The part was received with in 3 days from PartSelect so I was very satisisfied with the service and ease of repair.

Turned power off. Removed two screws holding the element. Pulled element out 3 inches, disconnected the two wires, pulled out old element, connected wires of new element, replaced screws. Turned power back on. Eureka!! the oven heats again. :-)

Removed nuts holding element to rear of oven using nut driver, pulled wires out 3 inches and disconnected using needle nose pliers, installed new element. Job took 10 minutes - very easy job and works fine.

Pulled oven door up and off. Removed old hinge and installed new hinge. Replaced oven door. It was a very simple job. The whole project took less than 15 minutes.

Removed to screws holding the bake element in place. pulled out element to get to the 2 electrical connectors. removed connectors from old unit. connected new unit and secured with the screwes. very simple.

I removed the two screws with a nut driver, pulled the element out far enough to expose the connection point and disconnected the electrical clips. Upon receipt of the new element I did those things in reverse order and it worked great.

This repair was idiot-proof. Removed 2 screws, unplugged the old part, plugged in the new one, and replaced the 2 screws.
Literally a 2 minute repair!!