9114618890 Kenmore Range - Instructions

1st, Turn off the stove at the electrical box. 2nd, Remove the oven door by opening it to the first stop, and then pulled it straight up. 3rd, Remove the 2 screws using a 1/4" nut driver. 4th Pull the old heating element straight out, until the two wires that attach to the element are out 3" from rear oven wall. (Note: Place a peace of tape around each wire before disconnecting from the element. this will keep the wires from falling back through the holes). Remove the wires from the old element and remove the old element. 4th Place the new element into the oven, place the wires onto the new element. Then reverse the order of removal for new element install, for the repair. Less than 10 minutes.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!

As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.

The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.

Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.

I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.

Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.

Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.

A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.

Unplugged unit. Pulled 2 screws from bake element. Pulled terminals and screwed back in. On upper element you just pull the old one and push in the new.

Piece of cake. Pulled range out, unplugged it, opened stove, unscrewed element from back of stove w/ socket wrench, pulled out 1/2 way, unplugged bad bake element from the 2 wires, plugged in new bake element in, reattached to back of oven, plugged in stove and it worked.

Removed the two screws pulled out the old element and slid the new element in and put the screws back in. I used it that night to bake supper

I read the "easy to repair" story after I ordered my part and I felt like I coud do this on my own. (Female not much experience in repairs) I shut off circuit breaker...proceeded to take out element...could not get it to easiler come off...so I made the mistake of cutting the wire because it looked like that's what I needed to do. WORD TO THE WISE...there are clamps that actually pull off the element..just need to pull a little. So my "easy" project was made more difficult because I didn't know this up front. Otherwise it would have been a breeze. I had to go to the hardware store and but new clamps and attach to the cut wire. Good news is my oven is now working and Parts.com was fast, cheaper than the GE parts place and great service.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

the only challenging thing realizing that the screws in the back weren't for a screw driver, they were for a very small wrench. Since I didn't have such a tool, I just used vice grips. It all went well though. The oven currently heats to 400 degrees in 7.5 min. I am quite happy.

Remove dthe two screws and removed the element. Put the new element in and replaced the terminals and screws. Partselected is the fastest shippers on the net.

Slid door off hinges. Removed 3 screws which hold hinge in place. Removed drawer to access spring for hinge. Gasped at all the crumbs and crap which had collected underneath the drawer. Cleaned up crumbs+crap from floor. Disconnected spring from hinge and removed old hinge completely. Installed new hinge with 3 screws. Attached spring to hinge - center hole fitting. Slid drawer back in place. Angled hinges outward in order to re-install door. Slid door back onto hinges. Door now operates nice and smoothly. Job well done.

Two screws hold the element to the oven wall. two wires attached to the back of the element. very simple removal and replacement.

unscrewed it unhooked the wires and replaced with new part