36273222202 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Mohammad from BARTLETT, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10055, WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The old burners were damaged by the prior owners.
The repair was extremely easy. Just removed the old burners and dropped in the new ones. No tools needed.
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- Customer:
- Robert from SOUTH ELGIN, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046, WB16K10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burners wouldn't light
Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.
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- Customer:
- Lenora from Crowley, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Screws fell into a black hole and trouble threading the thermostate
My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.
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- Customer:
- PHILL from SOMERSET, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench (Adjustable)
the tubes both leaked
replacement was a snap and took only a small adjustable wrench and a flashlight. asome slight bending of the tube was required, but a gentle hand solved the problem easily.
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken thermostat.
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
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- Customer:
- Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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- Customer:
- michael from The Villages, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
burners would not light
Remove the old tubes. Lift the lid NO MORE THAN FOUR INCHES. !!!!! Feel for the connections on the switch ends and attach losely. Carefully ( with some slight bending ) attach tubes to the burners. Tighten all connections. Do not over tighten.
The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.
The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.
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- Customer:
- Juanita from GAINESVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10070, WB16T10046, WB16K10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
gas burners not heating evenly
remove old burner, put new in place
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- Customer:
- Marie from Woodstock, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Front burners had to be lit with lighter
My son lifted up cooktop, unscrewed the front plate to gain access to old tube burners, removed and replaced with new parts.
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- Customer:
- JUNSOO from NORTHBROOK, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Cracked the left burner tubes
I opened cook top without disassemble cook top and broke the left front tube.
After I received left front tube and disassemble cook top to install and found right front tube also not good condition.
I ordered right front tube and installed both tube. I recommend order both front tubes to save shipping.
The tubes were easy to install but little bit hard to remove old Electrode for disassemble cook top and to line up cook top and holder orifice screw hole for assemble.
After I received left front tube and disassemble cook top to install and found right front tube also not good condition.
I ordered right front tube and installed both tube. I recommend order both front tubes to save shipping.
The tubes were easy to install but little bit hard to remove old Electrode for disassemble cook top and to line up cook top and holder orifice screw hole for assemble.
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- Customer:
- Linda from New Milford, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The front tubing broke.
The parts were easy to locate on the website, reasonably priced, and arrived in two days. The installation was simple and the parts fit exactly as they should.
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- Customer:
- iosif from brooklyn, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB62K10048
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
break pain on the top
unscrew desconect power and replace it
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- Customer:
- James from Monterey, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB08T10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
broken light socket
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
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- Customer:
- Rebecca from Las Vegas, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB27T10469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
no display
Turned off circuit breaker to stove, remove top panel and then the old control module and installed replacement. Power back on and top panel reinstalled. Easy!!! And Everything works like new!!!
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