9114538893 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

At first I tried to remove the element from the top of the oven. I took out the screws with a nut-driver (1/4"). Them I tried to pull the element out slowly so I could unplug it from the power wires. One of the wires pulled off bfore I could get it out. I then pulled the range out from the wall and removed the back from it. THEN I noticed that if you pull the stove away from the wall first and take off the back the wires are right there and easy to take on and off. Then replace the the back panel, plug in the stove and test the element. It will give off a slight odor as the manufacturing coating is burned off.

I read the "easy to repair" story after I ordered my part and I felt like I coud do this on my own. (Female not much experience in repairs) I shut off circuit breaker...proceeded to take out element...could not get it to easiler come off...so I made the mistake of cutting the wire because it looked like that's what I needed to do. WORD TO THE WISE...there are clamps that actually pull off the element..just need to pull a little. So my "easy" project was made more difficult because I didn't know this up front. Otherwise it would have been a breeze. I had to go to the hardware store and but new clamps and attach to the cut wire. Good news is my oven is now working and Parts.com was fast, cheaper than the GE parts place and great service.

the only challenging thing realizing that the screws in the back weren't for a screw driver, they were for a very small wrench. Since I didn't have such a tool, I just used vice grips. It all went well though. The oven currently heats to 400 degrees in 7.5 min. I am quite happy.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Piece of cake. Pulled range out, unplugged it, opened stove, unscrewed element from back of stove w/ socket wrench, pulled out 1/2 way, unplugged bad bake element from the 2 wires, plugged in new bake element in, reattached to back of oven, plugged in stove and it worked.

I really like my repairman, but prefer to do it myself. PartSelect rocks...reasonable prices, really fast shipping AND online repair videos keep me coming back. The repair was exactly as the video described, but one of the wires came loose as I was pulling the element through. I thought I'd have to tear the stove apart to get to it, but luckily, all of the wiring is contained in a raceway that runs along the back of the stove. After removing it to expose the wires, I would recommend doing so instead of trying to pull the wires through as the video shows. In doing so, the terminal connections are readily accessible and it's much easier to remove and install the bake element without having to worry about feeding the wires through at the same time and running the risk of damaging them. Overall, a very simple, quick repair that saved me a $50-75 service call.

After noticing it needed replaced I went to PartSelect, put in model/serial# and order that easy. It was here the next day. The oven was fixed. Now back to baking...thanks PartSelect.

Took out the hexagon screws, used pliers to pull the connecting ends apart, slid in the new element in to the connecting slots, reattached to screws, turned on the oven to see if it would heat up and it did. It was really easy. I had waited for a week to get the part from my local Sears parts house. You sent it out and I had it in 3 days. They still don't have the part. Thanks so much.

Removed the two screws pulled out the old element and slid the new element in and put the screws back in. I used it that night to bake supper

Removed the two screws and pulled out the bake element. Then plugged in the new element and replaced the screw. Easy

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

Simply turned off the power (circuit box). Unscrewed the screws holding the element in place and detached the element from the wires. Replaced with the new element and replaced the screws. Turned the power back on. Easy as pie and saved lots of $$!

first i unplugged the stove to disconnect all power. next itried using pliers to unscrew the screws and was having a hard time so hubby got the adjustable wrench and it was much easier. after taking out the two screws, i pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the element from the two wires that hold it in place. then i snapped the new element in place just as the old one was and reattached the element to the stove using the two screws. after assuring that element was secure, i turned my oven on to 300 degrees and voila!!! we're cookin again!!!

I turned the power off.Pushed on the terminals,and used a nut driver to secure the element to the oven back wall.Great service.I recieved the part in 24 hours with reg. shipping at a great price,Unbelieveable!!!