79045252400 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Very simply following the online video instructions.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

Trun off power, remove other knobs gain access to panel remove rubber connectors, which gave me access to switch. Study connections install new switch put panel back together,turn power back on run a series of test, all went well.

Took a screwdriver and removed screws attaching the element to the back of oven. Disconnectec the wires from the old bake element. Replaced the new reversing the process. Very easy.

Removed 2 screws holding old temperature sensor inside the oven and gently pulled out the wire till the connector came through the hole. Disconnected old probe and attached new one. Fished the wire back in the hole and replaced the two screws. Then followed the operating instructions for calibrating the oven. Ended up setting it +5 degrees. So far, works great.

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

In order to service the switches on this model, remove all four knobs for the switches. This will expose the plastic nuts which hold the fascia panel secure. Remove those nuts and the fascia panel. Next use a phillips screwdriver to unsecure the steel panel which secures all four burner switches. Remove the faulty switch, taking note of each color lead and terminal designation. Replace in reverse order.

Turned off electrical breaker (double). Removed the switch handle, removed the plastic rings (special wrench) under the handles. Removed three screws up under the front of control panel. Removed six screws holding the infinite switches. Removed defective switch. Different from the new switch. Wiring locations were different on the old sw. The reason for the vom use. All is well.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

Reviewed the online repair video a few times then got started. Although only two were bad, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I removed the range top instead of using the built in kick stands. this left me much more room to work and I was able to clean the top of the range really well before getting started. Wires for the back terminals where short and a little difficult to use after cutting off the old terminal blocks. The terminal block mounting option for my style range included with the repair kit would not allow me to utilize the screw for the third wire on the left rear burner. I used a drill to carefully widen the hole in the mount to make the original screw fit as there are no screws included with the kit. This added the extra time to complete the repair. Over all the repair was simple to complete but having to modify the terminal block mount was dissapointing considering the web site selected parts for my specific model number. Still a bargain compared to what a service call or new purchase costs. I will be reparing my ranges from now on.