62946775690 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed the failed bake element per the video linked in the Partselect email. Unlike the video on YouTube the PartSelect video shows that the bake element can easily be replaced through the oven door and it is not necessary to slide the range out and remove a rear panel.

Removed screws of old element pulled clips off replaced with new element very easy

I had the problem before and had to call in a Tech to repair the baking element in my oven. It cost me $150.00 for the repair. This time I decided to do the repair myself, so I went online and found this site The instruction video made it very easy. I am very proud of what I was able to do without calling a Tech. My oven works like new, It only cost less than $40.00 for the total repair. I am so glad this site were there when I needed them.. Thanks a Lot..

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

All I had to do was pull the drawer out and screw on the new part! Awesome experience...and it was so easy to find the part on the website, everything is very clear and with pictures to ensure where the part belongs...who could ask for more?

Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.

Removed two screws from back of oven ,pulled apart old coil from wires, inserted new coil into the small metal pieces, pushed back and screws replaced. Really easy , anyone can do. Oh, I am 70 years old so probably people younger could do more quickly.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

Pulled the drawer and removed the oven door by pulling it upward. Then removed the two hex head screws which loosened the old hinge and pulled it down out of the side of the oven box. Replaced the new hinge in the position of the old one and installed the two hex head screws. I replaced the oven door and that was when I realized the part was wrong. The parts description in the view on the website was one number off and I replaced the broken hinge and ordered from another site the right number. That hinge works.

****Threw the breaker switch for the oven to the 'off' position****. Opened the oven. Unscrewed the phillips head screws at the back of the old element. Removed the connecting wire, taping them to the stove so that they wouldn't recede into the hole. Securely attached the connecting wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back into the holes in the stove. Removed the tape from the oven. Screwed the element into place. ****Threw the breaker switch back to the 'on' position****. Process took under 10 minutes.

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG OR TURN OFF BREAKER BEFORE DOING ANYTHING WITH THE WIRES. Don't forget to turn it back on again when you are done.

Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

I first shut off the breaker to the stove - safety first!

I used a phillips screw driver to remove the two screws that held the old element in. Then I pulled the old element out and used the pliers to remove the electrical connections. I put the new element in, made the electrical connections and secured it with the screws. After restoring powere via the breaker, we tested the stove and it worked. Just call me the Maytag Man!

First I turned off power to the range at the fuse box (very important-The last time I didn't do this and ended up paying a repairman $150.00 to replace the damaged connectors). I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the new element, pushed the element back in and replaced the screws. Turned the power back on and tested the element. The whole job took about 30 minutes because I had trouble disconnecting the old element. I used the flat end of the scrapper to push against the connector while I pulled the element out. Normally it would take only about 15 minutes.