79093762001 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the four screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out and disconnected the two wire. Installation was pretty much the reverse of the removal except, when I went to put the two screws holding the element to the top of the oven I discovered the holes were rusted out. I looked for inserts to put in the holes but every time I tried different inserts the holes got bigger. I finally realized the oven is just sheet metal so I moved the bracket about an inch drilled new holes and used self-tapping screws.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Removed the defective part. Install the new part, insert the connectors. Now its working

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

I watched the video on how to do it

snap out the old one and snap in the new

I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass
The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.

With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

I unplugged the damaged unit and plugged in the new one.

Remove heating coils raise stove top unsrew terminal blocks cut wires assemble terminals strip wires twist wires together install wire nuts apply heat shrink lower stove top plug in stove repair complete.Thanks.

Simple: Snip old terminal block off. Strip wires. Connect new Terminal block using twist-on wire caps (provided in kit). Mount to stove top with existing screw. TIP: Make sure you insert the wire lead into the terminal block the right way (not upside down). Otherwise burner element will not insert into terminal block properly.

This product was super easy to apply. The part came in perfect condition and when I discovered 2 of the screws had fallen into the actual door (causing the door to apply pressure unevenly to the handle when pulled) fixing it was a snap.