36272220204 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed two bolts at the rear of the oven bottom. I pulled the old oven bottom out, and put the new oven bottom in. I put the two bolts back in and voila it looks like a new oven. Done in less than 15 minutes.

Removed the old oven bottom by removing two nuts. Be careful...don't drop the nuts! Removed the heat shield that was attached with four nuts to the old bottom and transferred it to the new oven bottom. Then placed the new bottom in the oven and secured it with the two original nuts. Easy...but don't forget about transferring the heat shield and don't lose the nuts.

Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.

Replaced old burner element with new, easy

Opened up the top of the stove using a screwdriver. Lifted it up about 3 inches and legs popped out on each corner and held it in that position. Traced the wire to the back and down to the oven. Pulled new thermostat along that route. When I got to the back it was a little tricky moving the thicker end around and down into the hole without removing anything from the back- but I did manage to do it. I then unhooked old thermostat from 2 clips, inserted new one and then went to the front and unsrewed the 2 small screws behind the oven control knob. Magnetic bit on screwdriver is a must! Pulled it back and removed wires one at atime and put onto new unit, then screwed it back in place and replaced knob. Plugged it in and turned it on. It came on ,stayed lit. Turned it off and it stayed lit- surprised me. . . . . . 25 Seconds or so and it went out. . . . . Job done!!

Husband actually did the repair, It went really well except he forgot to remove the heat shield from the old part to attach to the new bottom. (His mistake!)

Unplugged stove. Removed the top rear panel to see where the thermostat cable fed into the oven. Left the current cable in place and fed new cable along side the old one. Pulled out the old cable once new one was installed. Attached wires to new thermostat and installed. Turned oven on to test. Everything went great.

Cut off the power. unscrewed the cover. fed the new thermostat inside the over and rescrewed. Feeding the line was the most time consuming finding the hole to insert it in the back of the oven.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

I removed the two nuts that secure the rear orifice tubes. This allowed me to lift the range top to access the broken tubes. Once lifted I removed the nuts that held the broken orifice tubes. I then connected the new orifice tubes. I removed the three(star)screws that fasten the orifice brackets under the range top. Doing this allowed me to connect the new tubes without having to maneuver them at all. I then lowered the top just enough to reattach the brackets. After securing the rear tubes I snapped the range top back into place. Just remember, if you use propane for cooking then you must remove the brass orifices from the old tubes and place them in the new ones. If you don't do this then your flame will not burn properly. Simply unscrew them from the old tubing and put them in the new tubing.

Very easy repair! Removed lower oven pan/ plate. Removed burner tube with 3 screws, removed igniter and reversed to reinstall!

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

I read the instructions from other peoples repairs. One note: unplug stove, and turn gas off, remember where wires go. I didnt have to remove top of stove completly.

Turned off circuit breaker to stove, remove top panel and then the old control module and installed replacement. Power back on and top panel reinstalled. Easy!!! And Everything works like new!!!

Could not have been simpler. Burner head dropped into place and was held in place by gravity. Not possible for part to go in incorrectly.