66575032200 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Simply removed three screws that held the door trim in place. Once the screws are removed be carefull because the front door glass is held in place by the bottom door trim. Otherwise an extremely easy repair.

I have removed this piece once before and painted it,
but it is difficult to prepare surface.

I tried to replace the part without removing the door
but had difficulty getting the screws to line up.

So, I took the door off. Forgot that you are supposed to jam
the spring hinges in the open position before you remove the door. Manual describes how to do this but picture is not very helpful. So I made two wooden dowels about 3/8" in dia by about 3/4" long. Opened the hinge with a screwdriver and jammed the dowels in place.

Door Trim went on easily and the oven door went back on quickly.

Surprised they don't make this trim piece with rust proof material.

Remove 2 screws holding oven bottom in place.Lift out the plate and replace with new plate. The hardest part of the replacement was lining up the screw holes. By the way i have never received such great service from any internet company as Part Select. I ordered the part on a Monday and the part was at my home the NEXT DAY and installed that evening.

Remove three screws, slid old trim piece off door. Slid new trim in place. Used ice pick to align screw holes and replaced screws. Total time about 15 minutes. Tip: used a bead of silicone sealer on the new trim strip to prevent moisture from causing new strip to rust.

took the handle off, replaces the side trim piece and replaced the handle. Very simple!

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

I had problem with the oven of the stove since the beginning. It wa difficult to start. Later, it stoped working. The technician told m that the gas valve regulator was the problem. That was the reason I decided to buy a new one. After installing it, however, the problem continues. The ignition starts, but the gas does not go thru. It seems the signal does not go to the valve to open the gas.

Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.

Unplugged, took off back, removed old part, put on new part and connected. Replugged and it worked great.

Removed two gas lines at the safety valve. Removed the four mounting screws and disconnected the three wires. Re-assembled in reverse order of dis-assembly. This was an easy diagnosis and repair/replacement. The PartSelect website is very easy to use if you have the model number and I like the diagrams to be sure the part is correct.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too