36274622300 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

took nut driver to remove the old and replaced with new. simple.

I replaced the oven igniter, discovered the floor of the oven had rusted through, so I replaced that as well. The burner on top of the stove would not light as it was designed, and because the 12 screws that hold the range top and burners in place were rusted in place I ended up buying a new range because removing the screws on the burners proved impossible, even when I tried to drill them out with a lefthanded screw removal tool. I should have just kept lighting the burner that would not light, with a match. That was a repair too far, that forced me to buy a new GE Range and throw this one in the trash. The igniter, oven floor replacement was easy. The burner igniter after 18 years proved impossible. .I installed the 18 yr. old burner grates on the new range, but the drip pans would not fit the new stove. New GE Range instructions were near useless. Do Not trust them, especially the Orifice change details NG to LPG.

Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.

Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.

the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part

First, hand lifted and removed front and rear burner grates. Second, hand lifted and removed front and rear burner caps. Third, hand lifted and removed the bad Right Double Porcelain Pan (Spill Pan) from the range surface. Then clean and remove dirt, grease, stain on the range surface and around the burners area as needed. Lastly, replaced the good Right Double Porcelain Pan (Spill Pan), burners caps and burner grates in the reverse order as you removed them. Done in less than 5 minutes.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

Removed six screws on the back panel. Just switched six wires from the old to the new module. Stove burners work perfectly now.

disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.

was still using back burners while waiting for parts (after safety check). I unplugged the electric for the igniters, raised top, installed tubes, checked for leaks with soap solution, closed top, plugged in electric tested burners. Got a big hug and kiss from my wife.

I bent the tubes very slghtly to rech the area of attachment. I first screwed them with my hand then tightened them with an adjstable wrench. It was really simple and fast.

Lift up work light cover. Remove lamp. Remove two screws from control panel. Lift up control panel. Pop out spark module from slots. Remove the 6 wires from module. Attach wires to new module - module has a diagram on it that shows where wires are attached. Push new module back into slots. Replace control panel cover, lamp, and work light. Now the burners light - the spark is MUCH stronger than before repair.