9117318610 Kenmore Range - Instructions

With directions from the website as well as in the box, the repair was almost flawless. I needed to be a mouse with a 6mm box-end wrench.

simple remove & replace. 2 min job. Couldn't be happier.

The stories posted on your web page are great - only improvement would to add a schematic of the parts being removed - no issues were encountered - great service by the way - part arrived the next day - a Saturday!

John M.

frist tested ignitor with meter removed ignitor order
part , I recieved to my surprise next day I'm a very happy person

The biggest problem is to get down low enough and far enough back to be able to reach the igniter. Other tan that , it was a simple affair.Unscrew the old one and detach the wire nuts and reverse the procedure for the installation and hope the gas valve has'nt been affected

Removed bottom drawer removed door and racks and bottom shield.disconected two leads from igniter . then struggled to remove igniter. after ordering part readf comments from other men and the man who said he removed the burner hit it right on the head after the part arrived the very next day after ordering it i removed the burner attached pig tails and had part installed and stove back together in 15 minutes. thanks good experience

Take bottom drawer out, take two 1\4 inch drive screws out from back bottom of inside of oven. Take out protector plate . Remove 1\4 inch drive screws from bottom burner[back of oven] where drawer was. Extract burner. Rest is self explanitory. Good luck. . . . . .

replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -

To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with excellent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald

First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy process(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.

FIrst, have the tools you will need, a straight ratchet screwdriver, 1/4" ratchet/screwdriver set, a 90 degree offest, some small plastic bags to hold/tape screws to the pieces you take apart, and a flashlight.

1) Turn off the breaker to the oven.

2+ 3) Take the oven door off. It simplly lifts straigh up off the hinges. ( It slides back on hinges when you're done.) Take off the botton kick plate by pulling top down. The botton in on a hinge.

4) Slide out the oven racks.

5) Take out the inside bottom cover of the oven which is inside the oven. The cover lays flat and is attached by two screws in the back inside corners. You have to lift it up/out back edge first. (Put it back front edge first, & realign screw spring clips if necessary)

6) Slide out the oven gas line/igniter cover, which is found immedicately under the oven cover, by taking out one screw front center. You will then see the igniter in the back of the oven next to the gas line. *DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING HOLDING THE GAS LINE*.

7) From under the oven, take out two side screws helping to support the botton tray, one each middle side. Then take out the two most front bottom screws. while holding the front edge up. (It will drop) Then slide it out of groves in the back of the oven.

8) Take out the inside cover (2nd botton cover) by taking out the two screws from the inside front top. It will also slide out. This will totally open up access to the igniter bracket attacked to the gas line. *NOTE CURRENT PLACEMENT OF IGNITER WIRES*

9) Take off the two igniter bracket screws. Put the new igniter in its place.

10) Cut one wire off the old igniter as close to the old igniter part as possible. *YOU WILL NEED ALL THE EXTRA WIRE* *DO ONE AT A TIME* Match the same wire position old to new, strip 1/4", twist and ceremic wire nut provided together. Do the same with the second wire.

Put all parts back in reverse order.

I removed the bottom cover inside the oven. Beneath that was another cover held by two screws. I removed these and the ignitor was right there. I removed the bracket screws and pulled the ignitor away from the back wall of the oven and cut the two wires close to the ignitor, leaving enough wire to reconnect the wires from the oven outlet to the new ignitor with the supplied wire nuts. Then I re-attached the bracket to the new ignitor and once that was done simply reattached the unit to the back wall of the oven. The whole job is pretty straight forward, the only difficult part being the limited work space INSIDE the oven.

There are other descriptions here, but here's my story. I pulled the oven door off (pull straight up on it, it will come off) and removed the bottom warming drawer (there are plastic tabs on the outside of each side of the drawer--slide them and pull, several times on each side). I turned off the gas from behind the stove and unplugged the range, undid two screws at the back of the oven floor and lifted it forward and up. The burner is visible, but here is the hard part. The bolts holding the ignitor are underneath it and angled such that it is almost impossible to get any type of tool near them. I have small hands, and that helped. The screws are a bolt-head type or hex head, and I found that a one quarter inch open end wrench sort of fit. 6mm was too small and 7mm was too large. I managed to get the screws loosened after much struggling and manuvering, with half my body inside the oven, and once it was out, I was able to reach in from where the warming drawer was and unscrew the two wire leads attached from the ignitor to the power. They are held by plastic screwcaps. The reverse process was self explanatory, except that you should put the new ignitor in the oven and feed the wires down through the back panel, then attach the screwcaps to join the wires to the leads. Then go back in the oven and attach the ignitor, back screw first, and tighten it all the way, since you may not be able to reach it once the front screw is in. Also, use the screws that come with the new ignitor, since they are easier to start than the old ones. Tighten the screws as tight as you can get them so the ignitor doesn't wiggle, then turn the gas back on and plug it in, and test it before you put it back to gether. Mine worked, but it was a pain to do, kind of like working on an old car that wasn't designed to be fixed easily. Good luck.

Just replaced the igniter, was pretty easy

Removed oven bottom panel. Removed lower drawer to access old igniter. Had to take a cover panel off to expose igniter. Unscrew two screws to remove igniter which was a bit awkward to reach. Then simply put new one in its place.