66595788000 Kenmore Range - Instructions

It was easy to find the part. I ordered it on Sunday and it arrived Wednesday. A stress-free experience.

Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.

The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.

Pulled the dial off, unscrew two screws. Pull the switch out from the back. Disconnect the wires from the old switch and connect to the new switch one by one. Set the new switch in place. Sctew the two screws in to hold the switch in place. Push on the dial.

Wire connection was damaged, replaced end piece

My husband pulled the oven out and unscrewed the screws(in the back) the heating element came right out. He did everything on his own. The only thing he needed a little help with was for me to keep the heating coil flush to the back wall of the oven, while he screwed the new one in. It was a very quick job. The longest part was pulling the oven out to get behind it and sliding it back in.

My wife did it! I got home one night and my wife had done it! That's how easy it was! Trust me, he is no handyman (woman) but she did it by herself. The part came fast, the price was better than any one else's

As a former appliance repairman, the installation went just like the repair instruction video.
Just use care not to scratch anything and clean behind the appliance and cabinet walls, etc. It's worth a hug and a piece of pie!

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

Unplugged unit from wall.
Unscrewed the two screws on at he back of the oven where the element is attached
Removed old element by pulling apart the connectors.
Attached new element to the connectors.
Replaced cover with the two screws.

Unpluged range for safety (power earlier removed by circuit breaker turnoff).
Removed two screws from front switch cover.
Removed knob from effected switch and removed the wires on the back of the switch.
Removed two screws holding switch and removed switch.
Reversed the process to install new switch.
The entire project took about ten minutes.

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Simply removed the bottom drawer, unscrew the old broken glide, and attach the new glide. Simple and no hassles.

1. Pull range out from wall
2. Unplug range
3. Remove back cover using drill and screwdriver bit
4. Remove dial handle on affected burner dial
5. Remove two screws to unattach broken infinite switch
6. Disconnect wires from broken infinite switch
7. Reconnect wires to new infinite switch
8. Attach new infinite switch using two screws
9. Use pliers to snap off end of post to fit your burner dial, if necessary. It was on ours.
10. Reconnnect dial handle.
11. Reattach back cover using drill and screwdriver bit.
12. Plug range back in
13. Relocate stove against wall