2783548810 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.

Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.

The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.

1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?

I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall.
• Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line.
• Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools.
• Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is.
• Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place.
• Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is.
• Remove the igniter 1-2 screws
• Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered****
• Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under****
• Reassemble the range and replace the drawer.
• Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.

Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.

First I disconnected power, then removed two screws from igniter & cliped two wires. Then installed new igniter & with the wire nuts supplied refastened to supply lines in oven.
PartSelect makes repairs quick & easy. It just takes a little smarts on your part.

Removed grills, oven bottom, heat deflector, and the two igniter mounting screws. Pulled out igniter, removed two wire twist caps and old igniter. Cut off ragged ends of wires coming from the stove side and re-stripped the wire ends. Attached oven side wires to new igniter wires using new twist caps. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Tested oven operation to ensure that the gas ignited promptly. (It did).

Remove the broiler pan to get at the 2 nuts that hold the gas burner, remove them and then you can get at the 2 nuts on the back side of the igniter.

I was able to access the burner and igniter by removing the broiler drawer. The flame guard was removed with a nut driver and the old igniter with a phillips screwdriver.

The electrical wires had to be spliced into the old igniter wires as they did not come with the factory connectors. However sire nuts were supplied.

After replacement of the igniter with the new one .. it would glow and about a minute later the gas would come on. However the gas from the burner did not light. I had to adjust the bracket closer to the burner to correct the issue.

Note: The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. This means that it will continue to glow even after the burner lights durning oven operation.

I figured out the problem, ordered the part, and replaced it. Four hex head screws, two wire nuts, and two thum screws latter it was working.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...And then I installed
ignitor tightening the two screws and connected the two ignitor wires with the provided wire-nuts.
Mike Polcho

It was a simple repair removed the oven door, and the oven bottom plate. removed the screw that held the burner tube to gain access to the two screws that hold the igniter in place clipped the wires. put the new one on with butt end wire connectors instead of the wire nuts supplied. screwed the igniter back onto the burner tube put the burner tube back in place and secured it with the screw, replace oven bottom and door the whole repair took 20 minutes.

IThe schematics on the website were helpful for how everything goes together. I just followed the picture and then unscrewed all the screws that held the ignitor to the gas pipe. Have to pull out the gas pipe out first so you can get to the bolts, easy to do when you pull out the drawer and unscrew the hold down for the gas pipe.

No directions came with the part, and the length of the new wires weren't long enough nor did they have the attachment pieces that are needed to plug in the wires. However, helpful tips from others on the website told me that you have to cut the wires off the old part and screw the wires from the old to the new with the white plastic wire couplings. Worked like a charm!

It was a simple procedure, and I saved myself buying a new stove or paying someone else to fix it!