79046254400 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Al from THORNTOWN, IN
- Parts Used:
- 316217002
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven wouldn’t get up to temperature
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Leslie from Warsaw, VA
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken lens over oven light
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Ronald from FRENCH VLG, MO
- Parts Used:
- 903136-9020
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No power to burner until after dial setting 3 reached and would not reach highest setting.
1. Remove all four control knobs.
2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front
panel to stove.
3. Lift front panel off.
4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control
switches are fastened.
5. Lift entire assembly up.
6. Remove two screws holding bad switch to metal shield.
7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE
ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD
SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in
the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one.
The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you
have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished
job.If just one wire is connected to the
wrong terminal a disaster will happen.
8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect
it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the
codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check
to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the
connected terminal.
9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch.
10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach
with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my
case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch.
11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove.
12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems.
13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts.
14. Install the control knobs.
15. Test the new switch.
2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front
panel to stove.
3. Lift front panel off.
4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control
switches are fastened.
5. Lift entire assembly up.
6. Remove two screws holding bad switch to metal shield.
7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE
ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD
SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in
the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one.
The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you
have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished
job.If just one wire is connected to the
wrong terminal a disaster will happen.
8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect
it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the
codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check
to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the
connected terminal.
9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch.
10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach
with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my
case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch.
11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove.
12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems.
13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts.
14. Install the control knobs.
15. Test the new switch.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Rodney from Orange Park, FL
- Parts Used:
- 318255006
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Electric Oven - No Heat in the bake Mode.
Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.
Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.
Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.
Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.
Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Louis from Beloit, WI
- Parts Used:
- 5303935058
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burning electrical smell and "buzzing"
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Sylvia from Escondido, CA
- Parts Used:
- 318255006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element burned out
Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes, worked perfect, thanks
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Douglas from Newark, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 318255006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
my mother blew up the old element. she wanted to tie it for 8 minutes but set it to 800 deg. f. lol:)
searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...
thanks partselect..
thanks partselect..
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Phyllis from GAINESVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Mason from WESTVILLE, OK
- Parts Used:
- 316217002
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would overheat and not control properly
Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Cheryl from PRAIRIEVILLE, LA
- Parts Used:
- 316217002
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Temperature in the oven was not consistent
1. Turn off power to the electric oven
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- ANGELA from MEBANE, NC
- Parts Used:
- 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Refrigerator Light bulb went out
I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- David from AVON, NY
- Parts Used:
- 903136-9010
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner control failed, needed replacement
Drawings on web site somewhat hard to read, resulting in more
disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the
threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees
up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down
the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to replace the control unit by
swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when
re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty
easily.
disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the
threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees
up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down
the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to replace the control unit by
swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when
re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty
easily.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Larry from COZAD, NE
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Lens cover for the oven light
Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Tanya from KALISPELL, MT
- Parts Used:
- 5304409888
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The elements were not heating up
It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!